CHENNAI: The Aranmanaikaran Street, also known as the Armenian Street is a narrow lane, bustling with shops, shopkeepers, and vehicles, which has been a witness to years of changes in history and culture. But despite all the development in and around the street, what has stayed is a white arch-shaped Armenian church.
The harmonious ringing of bells inside a long, white bell tower welcomes you. This bell which usually rings every Sunday morning, rang on Tuesday to mark the service being offered after more a year. A divine liturgy brings Armenians from across the country and sometimes even from outside India, to come together, deliver their prayers, offerings and to retain the long history of the Armenians in Chennai.
The history of the church dates back to the days of Kojah Petrus Woskan, an Armenian merchant who came to Madras from Manila at a time when the city was like a magnet, because of St Thomas of Cana. “Woskan built the steps of St Thomas Mount church and the Marmalong Bridge. Before he departed, he wrote all of his will to the people of Madras,” said Jude Johnson, the caretaker of the Armenian Church, adding, “You would have noticed the picture of Mother Mary taking Jesus to heaven inside the altar, and it is only in this Armenian Church that you would find such a photo.”
The church, which was built as a wooden structure in 1712, was then reconstructed in stone in 1772. This year, the church had a curtain at the altar to conceal the priest from people, a tradition followed during some parts of the liturgy. Rev Movses Sargysan, pastor and priest from Kolkatta, was seen in a bright traditional cassock and a crown. Accompanying him was a deacon, who said the prayers and songs in Armenian.
At the service was Michael Stephen, one of the last Armenians who lived in Chennai, whose great grandparents came to India in 1810. Michael was a caretaker at the Armenian Church from 1994 to 2004, after which he moved to Kolkatta and then to Bengaluru, where he is now settled with his family. “It was a blessing to have served at the church for 10 years. Attending this service was simply delightful. I’m glad that the priest has agreed to do this every year,” said Michael.
The church was initially built on a cemetery, and has buried the souls of 350 Armenians in its space. A small building next to the bell tower, which used to be a mortuary earlier, is the parish office today. “The last burial was done in 1855. After that we were given a place near the Central Railway Station” he said.
The bell tower is said to be the only church in south India to have six bells. Each bell is a different size and weighs up to 150 kg. One of them has inscriptions in Tamil.
Susan Reuben, warden, Armenian church, Kolkatta, attended the service. She said, “I was here last year too and it feels good to be back. It’s important to retain our culture.”