From Jodhpur Park to pop-ups in Dallas, London, and Bengaluru, Kolkata-based label 145 East has been reviving the humble Bengali towel — or gamcha — and how! When we dropped by their studio to check out their latest designs, we were first greeted by Leo, the labrador, who we spotted with a gamcha bow tie from their label.
Boho brigade
“We wanted to raise money for our grandfather’s NGO in Chandernagore and build basic infrastructure for a clinic,” says Rishabh. Shoma adds, “On one of our visits to Chandernagore, we came across these artisans, who had given up their trade because the craft is on the decline. That’s when we got in touch and started creating ensembles with organic fabric, which are suited to humid conditions and are eco-friendly too,” offers Shoma.
Their garments have an anti-fit Bohemian sensibility, and are often a riot of vibrant colours, with a lot of
striking names that are easy to remember. “Before our pop-ups abroad, we were told that incorporating some pastels and toning down the colours would be a good idea! But we didn’t want to do that as it didn’t feel authentic enough,” explains Shoma.
Androgynous edge
Their winter collection has a range of functional jackets that are unisex as they create gender neutral clothing, hence binaries are a strict no-no. We checked out jackets and coats, all made out of the gamcha fabric, fused with khadi and cotton, with loose and baggy silhouettes. “In our winter collection, we’re all about revival. Revival of the gamcha, of relationships, of our roots,” shares Shoma, adding, “We love it when our friends and family drop by to have a look at our latest collection.
It gives us immense joy when a mother-daughter duo or a mother-son duo get themselves similar garments, as it looks quirky and appeals to all.” The best bit is that their ensembles are entirely body positive, and cut across all ages and waistlines. One can also look out for their kaftans, scarves, gamcha accessories and bows.
Available online: From `2,000