Bonding over Syrian shawarma: A lesser-known refugee tale

Delhi is home to about half of the 24,000 refugees and 9,000 asylum seekers, mostly Somalis, Syrians, Afghans and Burmese, registered with the (UNHCR) in India.
Refugee staffs working in Middle East Cuisine, Delhi.( Photo | Nandalal)
Refugee staffs working in Middle East Cuisine, Delhi.( Photo | Nandalal)

DELHI: For refugees living in the national capital thousands of kilometres from their homes, all roads lead to a restaurant in south Delhi. Grabbing a bite of Syrian shawarma, Abdul from Kabul says, “I felt I was in Afghanistan when I walked in here. I saw people in Afghan attire, speaking Pashto and Dari, and instantly felt at home." Many others like Abdul throng Middle East Cuisine (MEC) which is staffed entirely by refugees from countries like Sudan, Afghanistan, Syria, Yemen and Iraq.

For the past few years, MEC has become the favourite rendezvous spot for these refugees who all have a story to tell about their daily struggles as they try to adjust to a place where they are mostly misunderstood. Without any legal rights, their only identity is a UNHCR refugee card or a registration certificate issued by the Indian government.

"I was studying BBM in Bangalore University from 2012 to 2016. After my studies, I could not go back to Sudan because of the civil war," said Abul Ghazi from Sudan.

Delhi is home to about half of the 24,000 refugees and 9,000 asylum seekers, mostly Somalis, Syrians, Afghans and Burmese, registered with the United Nations High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR) in India. Apart from that, nearly 8,000 Tibetans live in the capital out of which 4,500 live at New Aruna Nagar.

“I contacted the UNHCR for the refugee card and now I am a refugee here. Before getting a job at MEC, life was really difficult. Being a refugee, I could not get a proper job. It turned out to be really difficult to pay the house rent and get basic medical aid,” rues Abul.

The legal status of refugees in India is governed by the Foreigners Act of 1946 and the Citizenship Act of 1955. These acts do not exempt refugees fleeing persecution and violence. Under these acts, it is a criminal offence to be without valid travel or residence documents.

“It’s been a year since I began working in MEC and almost two years since I came to Delhi. India is a great place and even after a few initial hiccups, I could easily blend in," says Mirhussain Rizae. "Most of the customers come to our restaurant to try out the special Syrian shawarma," he adds.

There is no national refugee law in India, which means different groups of refugees are often treated differently. ( Photo | Nandalal)
There is no national refugee law in India, which means different groups of refugees are often treated differently. ( Photo | Nandalal)

However, it has not been a smooth journey for Mirhussain. Initially, he had to struggle for jobs, accommodation and healthcare because of the ambiguous legal status for refugees in India, which is not a signatory to the 1951 United Nations Refugee Convention. There is no national refugee law, which means different groups of refugees are often treated differently.

Bismillah, who has been living in Khirki Extension in Delhi for the past six years, feels that locals do not understand who refugees are. "I used to face some discrimination during my initial years. I used to be charged exorbitant rent and people refused to give me a job and the worst part was I could not get proper medical care because of the refugee tag," he says.

"Things have changed once I got a job at MEC. Now, I have a regular income and can look after my basic needs,” adds Bismillah.

There is a wallpaper at the eatery depicting 'Beit Jabri', a popular restaurant in Damascus. “Beit Jabri is a very special place for us. It reminds us of the heyday of Syria,” said the manager of the restaurant.

“Whenever I get time, I come down to Delhi for a couple of days from Jaipur. The food that you get in India is spicy. At MEC, you get proper Arab food which is not at all spicy," says Zakalam Tahir from Yemen.

Even after facing several hurdles and emotional trauma, these refugees have learned to adjust to their new home. What keeps them going is the dream of a new dawn when they can go back to their own countries and live in peace without the constant threat of war hanging over their heads. 

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