HYDERABAD: When you are in the Philippines, you get an opportunity to indulge in “island hopping”, which is as fun-filled as party hopping! You get to explore different places, meet interesting people, and taste different cuisines (if you are willing to do some bold experiments!). Otherwise, if you are like me, come back enlightened about some attention-grabbing food habits.
Palawan, a narrow archipelago of 1,780 islands on the western border of the Philippines is bound by the South China Sea on the west and the Sulu Sea on the east, stretching 650 km from tip to tip. Synonymous with spectacular dives, magnificent seascapes and popular activities like snorkelling, kayaking etc., its sanctuaries, hidden lagoons, soaring limestone cliffs and pristine beaches are irresistible to any traveller. The capital city, Puerto Princesa is approximately one-hour air travel from Manila and that was where we landed.
Allen, our guide, while briefing us on Palawan Island, said it is mostly inhabited by two tribes: Batak who live up in the mountains and practice slash and burn cultivation and the more civilised Tagbanwa who live in the lowlands. Concluding that their food habits also reflect their ethnic roots, my innocent question on the subject elicited an elaborate discourse from Allen, on the Filipino food culture.
Rice is a staple in every meal and one without rice is not considered a full meal. It is only counted as merienda (snack) no matter how large the helping. A day isn’t complete without three full, warm meals and snacks in between. It is not unusual to eat five times a day: breakfast, mid-morning snack, lunch, afternoon snack and dinner. Some may even fit in a sixth snack after dinner and before turning in for the night. Asking if the person has eaten or inviting people to eat is a common greeting in the Philippines. It is never polite to refuse food in the Filipino setting - even if you are already very full. A nibble or a bite is enough to show appreciation. Filipinos would rather starve than not prepare a small merienda for a guest - Isn’t that typical of Asian hospitality?
He went on to elaborate on the unique Filipino food culture and its own idiosyncrasies. Snake meat, he said, is indeed delicious when grilled or roasted and tastes like chicken. Crickets are much-coveted treats when heads, legs, and wings are removed and fried to crispiness on the outside, and soft texture on the inside. The clean farm rats and frogs living in the wilderness too taste like poultry! Tamilok, a mollusc found in the rotting mangroves, tastes like oyster and is a famous delicacy in Palawan.
Buwaya, the crocodile’s succulent white meat has a distinctive flavour and aroma. It is low in fat, low in calories and high in protein, good for the heart and lungs and is a natural aphrodisiac. What more, it’s easy to cook, chewy, texture like chicken etc. How about the Abuos, fried ant eggs and larvae? The giant ants/termites’ eggs and larvae are harvested from trees like the tamarind tree and are relished by all. They are a good source of protein and will lower blood pressure.
Besides, some of them thrive on the meat of monitor lizard called bahawa while some relish the flesh of the monkey. As I listened to him, I was reminded of an idiom-“One man’s meat is another man’s poison”. Well, their food is their sustenance, their medicine. They look at these animals from a different angle.
But the piéce de résistance came that evening at Baywalk Park, one of the most visited tourist attractions in Puerto Princesa City. Apart from its relaxing ambience, the Baywalk Park also houses a number of restaurants, which offers seafood and aphrodisiacs including crocodiles and frogs (Filipino street food is exotic and at times shocking!). There were many carts selling various foods like boiled corn, grilled meat etc. Women were selling boiled duck eggs on a bed of peanuts. Allen announced that he was going to demonstrate how they eat Balut, a popular snack. Balut is a 14 to 18 days old duck embryo, boiled and served with rock salt or spicy vinegar: the contents are eaten directly from the shell, the partially developed embryo bones being soft enough to chew and swallow as a whole.
Allen ate it dramatically as we all clicked pictures. Later he explained that it is a powerful aphrodisiac and is very popular with Filipino men. During my brief stay on the bay walk, I saw only women selling it (on push carts) and men consuming. I didn’t see any woman eating it. Maybe Filipino women don’t need aphrodisiacs!!
Then the next day we went for lunch at Badjao Seafront; a floating restaurant built in a mangrove area offering picturesque views of Puerto Princesa’s seascape and a surreal experience. Walking through the narrow wooden bridge leading to the restaurant, I felt the beauty of every step. The rustic al fresco Badjao rests on stilts and gives a great feeling of being in the midst of mangroves. After hearing Allen’s stories and seeing him in action, I played it safe and opted for ensaladang talong; a mixture of grilled eggplants, tomatoes and onions tossed in a vinegar dressing. For dessert, I had fresh slices of pineapple and watermelon. Sometimes we eat only to survive. Don’t we?
(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer; she blogs at vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)