HYDERABAD: When we mention Hyderabadi biryani, we usually refer to the saffron-coloured spicy version which is available everywhere – star hotels, restaurants as well as Irani cafes. However, there is another version of biryani in Hyderabadi cuisine, a white aromatic rice and meat preparation called Sofiyani Biryani, which was quite popular in yesteryears and still finds favour with select food lovers.
Sofiyani Biryani has distinct Hyderabadi roots, though a version of this also exists in Pakistani cuisine. A story about its origin says that one of the Nizams had this recipe developed, as he was very fond of biryani but could not digest much of spices. Since then this flavourful dish was a regular feature for important dinners as well as festivals. There used to be a common man’s version of this dish too, which was in the household menu for special occasions. Well-known food connoisseur Pradeep Khosla rates this as one of the hidden gems of Hyderabadi cuisine.
The easy to digest Sofiyani Biryani uses lesser amount of ghee, the richness of the dish comes from use of khoya and malai. Strong spices like red chillies are mostly avoided in this preparation, and instead green chillies are used. The recipe does not use saffron, and to maintain the white colour, whole spices are often preferred to powdered ones. Green cardamom, coriander and mint leaves as well as cashew nuts, pistachios, and almonds are some other important ingredients used in the masala. The recipe is varied from place to place, for example, some chefs still prefer to use kesar to for better presentation.
Today the dish is no longer commercially popular. Noor and Ahaana’z Kitchen, a home based delivery service, is one of the few home chefs with Sofiyani on their menu. According to Noor Sahil from this outlet, the demand for this subtler version of biryani is low, as the taste buds of most of the food lovers in Hyderabad have been fashioned by the spicy biryani which is available in the Irani cafes and restaurants. However, people who are fond of milder flavours still like his version of Sofiyani, using almond and cashew paste and without fried onions.
Quite a few wedding caterers still have it on their list of items, as some discerning customers still want this item as part of their walima menu.Zaiqa-E-Hyderabad, a popular restaurant, occasionally serves Sofiyani Biryani. One hopes that Hyderabad revives its passion for this rich and flavourful dish.
Sabyasachi is a food enthusiast who blogs at www.foodaholix.in