HYDERABAD: Indian cuisine boasts of a few hundred varieties of kebabs, using many cooking techniques such as grilling, skewering, pan-frying or even roasting on a stone. Among the kebabs prepared as a patty from minced or ground meat are Galouti from Lucknow, Chapli from Pakistan, and Shaami from Delhi. Hyderabad also boasts of its own variety of such a kebab which is known as Shikampur or Shikampuri, which is a soft and delicate in texture.
The word shikam means “belly” in Urdu, and pur means full. Shikampur thus literally means filled up belly, possibly because the meat patties are stuffed inside with a filling of hung curd and chopped fried onions. This is to add to the dish a little tanginess or khattapan that Hyderabadi cuisine is known for. Says the food connoisseur Chef Pradeep Khosla that Shikampur Kababs were carried as typical safri khana or travel food in Hyderabad during earlier times. Jamrud or dried yoghurt powder and powdered fried onions were used then to ensure that the dish stays fresh for a few days.
The preparation of the kebab is not very complicated. Boneless pieces of beef or mutton are cooked in ghee with soaked chana dal as well as select spices and garam masala till the water is completely absorbed. The meat is then hand pounded to almost a dough like consistency adding masala and a little lemon juice and shaped into flat patties. A hole is next made in the middle, where a mixture of thick hung curd, chopped onions, green chillies, mint and coriander leaves is infused. The patties are then shallow fried in oil or ghee, and served with sides such as paratha, mint chutney, and sliced onions. .
Shikampur is sometimes served for the Muslim wedding feasts in the city, but the best versions of these kebabs are sampled at Hyderabadi homes especially on Fridays where it is enjoyed with khatti dal and rice. As per home chef Ahaana Khan, the dish has been one of the most ordered for parties and functions. Sadly the dish is no longer widely available in many restaurants, the smaller eateries prefer to prepare Shaami Kebab rather than Shikampur. Chicha’s at Masab Tank, Sarvy Restaurant and Zaiqa-E-Hyderabad at Banjara Hills are few restaurants in the city known for their Shikampur kababs. Shadab Hotel at Old City serves the dish only on Fridays that can be enjoyed with bagara khana and dalcha.
Sabyasachi is a food enthusiast and blogs at www.foodaholix.in