HYDERABAD: Ramzan is the month of prayers and fasting for the devout Muslims, but the food lovers in the city look forward to a special delicacy which is best relished during this period. Haleem, the wheat and pounded meat preparation, rich in ghee, cooked with select spices and lentils are typically consumed in the evening, breaking the day-long fast after post-Iftar prayers. A complete food, it helps to gain strength and energy after a long period of fasting. The dish has its origin in Central Asia. In Ain-I-Akbari, Abul Fazal mentions about the dish being served in Emperor Akbar’s court. Haleem was introduced in Hyderabad by the Yemeni soldiers in the Nizam’s army and has over the years become one of the most popular dishes as part of the Hyderabadi cuisine.
Haleem is reputed to taste the best during the Holy month. Well-known Hyderabadi food outlets set up special counters which are thronged in the evening by large crowds from all communities for their bowl of the delicacy. Much before the start of Ramzan, you can see bhattis made of brick and mud set up near cafes and restaurants. The wheat and meat ratio, smoothness of taste, number of bones in a plate and the amount of ghee and type of spices are all parameters on which a particular haleem is judged.
Select well-known Irani outlets start their haleem sale a fortnight before the start of Ramzan. Café Bahar at Basheerbagh and Café 555 at Masab Tank have started serving haleem right from the middle of the Islamic month of Shaban. Though a few thousand outlets in the city sell haleem during Ramzan, only a few places are crowd pullers. Pista House has an arrangement with a leading courier company to deliver haleem to major cities in India. Shah Ghouse, Shadab, and Paradise are a few others which top the popularity chart.
Mutton Haleem is generally preferred by traditional connoisseurs though the chicken and beef variants have their fans too. Some places experiment with fish and even vegetarian versions of the dish.
Differentiation is made on other parameters, too. Green Park Hotel and The Park Hyderabad are traditionally known for their boneless mutton haleem. Café 555 is fancied for its variations such as special haleem with chicken 65 and zaban, or goat tongue in it. Pakwaan Grand near Raidurgam prides itself for its Mashad Haleem, which is a version from Iran laden with dry fruits and ghee. SodaBottleOpenerwala offers a bouquet of 11 different types. While the focus of most haleem makers is taste, some even work towards a healthier option, with lesser ghee and masala.
A general consensus is that the taste of haleem from the outlets is at its best around a week after the start of the month, as these places stabilize on their preparation process by that time. As Eid approaches, there is a tendency that the amount of wheat and bones go up compared to the meat, especially in smaller outlets which try to make a quick buck at the end. Sabyasachi is a food enthusiast and blogs at www.foodaholix.in