HYDERABAD: S Abaji Rajah Bhonsle brings with him heirloom recipes from the Palace of Thanjavur. Praveen Anand, executive chef – Southern Cuisine, ITC Hotels, says with a smile, “It took 17 years for us to convince him to bring the royal cuisine to ITC Kakatiya Hyderabad.” Abaji Rajah smiles back adding, “I had to be sure for the showcasing.” And the recipes that he’s brought along are documented in the book ‘Sarabendra Pakashastra’ safely kept at Saraswati Mahal Library, Thanjavur. The palace is built in an area of 45 acres and has seven museums housing several collections of art. “It was Rajah Serfoji II who began documenting the recipes in 1812. These were written for the first time on palm leaves inscribed in a code language called Modi, now translated into English, Tamil and Marathi. But there are several documentations which remain uncoded and hence, untranslated,” informs Abaji who’s the brother of the Rajah Bhonsle, the current king. His better half, Lady Dhanashree Raje is from Kolhapur and certain methods of cooking are passed only to the ladies of the family.
The book classifies five kitchens in the kingdom: Maratha (non-vegetarian), Brahminical (vegetarian), Angrezi (European), Obdhar Khana (water) and Thatti Mahal Khana (milk). They even had a sharbatkhana to prepare just the sherbets and seasonal coolers. “Now we have three chefs, of course with their entourage, to prepare food for us,” adds Abaji, saying that present rasois can be a combination of the previous kitchens. He’s done the Thanjavur food promotion in Chennai, Bombay and Delhi.
Chef Praveen informs “All the delights that we sample are the recipes from the palace. The medium of cooking is only ghee and a lot of poppy and dry coconut (khopra) is used. Pepper is used much in the cooking, while the ghee balances the heat, making the dish not-too-hot on the tongue.” We try Komdyachi Sherva chicken soup, which is a comfort on a rainy afternoon. The Fish Korma, savoured with laat bakhri (rice chapatis) is delightful cooked with tamarind, mustard sauce, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, poppy and khopra as is
Mashyache Kebab done in hung yogurt, khopra, poppy seeds, green chillis and marinated for six hours before it is deep fried in a batter-coat. The result is a soft-fluffy delight. The fish used is murrel. What we liked the most is Rostam Gola, spiced meat balls relished with ginger chutney. And no it’s nothing to do with the fabled Persian army chief Rostam.
Other than secret ingredients, what’s the ‘secret’ of the exclusive taste? Shares Abaji, “The spices for non-vegetarian dishes are used in vegetarian items along with poppy seeds. That’s the reason.” He runs a hotel called Thanjavur Inn which ignited his keen interest in the royal recipes. Ask him what’s a normal royal meal is like, and he smiles, “I like idlis, appam and sambhar for breakfast. Phulka, rice, daal, vegetable curries and non-veg items for rest of the meal times.”
Food promotion at Dakshin on till October 20
Charges: approx `2,000++
— Saima Afreen
saima@newindianexpress