Designer JJ Valaya is in celebration mode and come December 20, he will host a grand event in collaboration with Swarovski and BMW at Delhi’s Bikaner House to mark his silver jubilee in the world of high fashion. All he’s willing to share is that “it will be a unique concept and a first-of-its-kind collaboration.” He, however, has plenty to say in this exclusive tête-a-tête as he looks back on his multifaceted journey thus far and also looks ahead at the years to come.
You come from an army background. How did you think of a creative profession such as that of a fashion designer? Were there any particular influencer(s)? Do you idolise any personalities from the world of fashion or do you have a muse?
I was the best artist of my school seven years running and used to work a lot with oils. My mother, a senior army officer’s wife, was a brilliant designer of kidswear and used to specialise in hand embroidery (she also used to train other army wives in her craft). My aunt, Parmeshwar Godrej, was a exceptional interior designer and generally known as a woman of fine taste… I suppose creativity ran in our blood.
Of course, there are many greats of fashion designers that I admire, but to me Rohit Khosla, with whom I did my summer internship while at NIFT, will always remain the father of modern Indian fashion. Karl Lagerfeld is another favourite because of the many hats he wears, including the coveted one of heading Chanel for so many years. Even at 84, he shows no signs of slowing down. If at all, Chanel shows are simply getting better by the day. Plus, we share a common passion which is photography!
Twenty-five years is a long time for a brand to remain in the top league. What is the philosophy of brand Valaya and what is the vision?
Celebrating India and remaining true to our roots was always the key driver and it will remain that way. I genuinely feel that the era of royal India was amongst the country’s most glorious and they were the true connoisseurs of luxury in their times. They in turn promoted craftsmen and fine handwork. Craft can only survive if there are connoisseurs who value and respect the commitment and passion that goes into creating the magic.
We have seen brand Valaya in multiple joint ventures with expansion into home furnishings and furniture. When you look back, do you want to redo some things differently?
Of course! All paths have various twists and turns and one has to keep traversing them. Life is the best classroom in the world and experiences as well as mistakes make the finest teachers. Hanging on to regret is a waste of time, yet, not learning from them is foolish. Between fashion and home, we have many associations in place and are inking more as we speak. Creativity is boundless and a free spirit, hampered only by superficial boundaries and negativity.
When you look at the current lot of fashion designers in India, what do you feel about the high-fashion industry’s status in India? Is high-fashion taken seriously and if not what are the reasons?
I have a mixed opinion about the current fashion scenario. On one hand, we have this incredible lot of talented designers who are cutting edge and pushing boundaries, on the other hand is the evil of plagiarism and non-respect of originality. This is something that needs to be addressed at the earliest and at various levels. As far as high-fashion is concerned (in the Indian context, this essentially applies to wedding clothes), it will always reign supreme as India has the capacity to both, create and consume expensive clothing. The years merely change certain tastes, but the appetite only grows larger.
We have also discovered your other facet—that of a photographer. Was the passion always there or did it germinate over multiple photoshoots that you may have been doing over the years for your collections?
I was always a spectator. I suppose photography was within me for years. I remember taking pictures during my NIFT days as well, then succumbing to making a brand and money, only to rediscover pampering my alter ego in 2011, with the debut of first fine art photography show: Decoded Paradox.
Last but not the least, what is your wishlist with respect to brand Valaya and fashion in India?
As I said just the other day (on being asked how I felt about completing 25 years), I’m only just beginning! There will perhaps always be two of me—the businessman and the artist—forever in a blissful harmony of conflict.
1989
Joins the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Delhi
1990
Becomes the first Indian student to win the Prix d’ Incitation at the Young Designers International Competition held in Paris
1991
Wins the Thapar-DuPont medal at the NIFT graduation show for the most innovative use of
fabric. Also wins the Elyxa Award for the best collection
1992
He and his brother, TJ Singh, join hands and together launch a new company with its first label, JJ Valaya, a haute couture line
1993 to 1995
The label is introduced in various upmarket stores in India and overseas. Valaya also has joint shows along with other prominent designers in major Indian cities as well as abroad.
1994
JJ Valaya becomes the first Indian design house to hold a solo show in India
1998
Valaya becomes the first Indian designer to show along with renowned American designer, Todd Oldham, in New York at the Plaza Hotel, Manhattan
1999
Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) is created. Valaya is a founder member of the governing council.
2001
Valaya is appointed brand ambassador for global crystal giant, Swarovski
2005
JJ Valaya ‘Muse’ is launched—single-edition haute couture through personal appointments at the flagship stores only
2006
The Valaya pret line is launched at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW)
2009
Valaya is the grand finale designer for the FDCI Wills India Fashion week
2011
Valaya Flagship store relocates and opens in a 10,000 sq ft space in Delhi. Opens a second store a year later.
2012-2017
Grand finale designer for Wills India Fashion week in 2012; grand finale designer for BMW India Bridal fashion Week in 2014; grand finale designer at Amazon India Fashion Week in 2015