Return of Indigo revolution

Express trails the fad to nail the sultry season’s blues with the traditional tie-and-dye fabric.

Indigo does not need fashionistas and trendsetters to declare it ‘in’ or ‘out’ of vogue. It is the colour of any moment and retains that space in all seasons.

Fabindia’s Indigo Collection
Fabindia’s Indigo Collection

Be it runways, high streets, fashion shows, craft bazaars, design fairs or exhibitions—Indigo-dyed products always occupy a pride of place. The intricate weave of Indigo Pashmina, the stunning Dhakai sari woven with jute, Kalamkari fabric painted in organic pigments, Ajrakh print of Kutch, the pretty Indigo Bandhinis and blue Shiboris—Indigo is intrinsic to most genres and a notch apart.  

Every Indigo collection has a story to tell. But before we get into the mysterious tales, let us unravel what exactly is Indigo. It is derived from the plant Indigofera tinctoria, and neervel, which is found in Kutch. Its dying process involves natural fermentation. Archana Shah in her book Shifting Sands: Kutch Textiles, Traditions, Transformation writes: “A skilled dyer would know from the smell when the solution was ready for dyeing.”

Well-known for her Indigo fascination, fashion designer Anita Dongre says, “Indigo dyes in particular are a study. Every piece has a unique identity and voice. For my Grassroot collection, I worked with artisan clusters from three states to create fabrics from traditional techniques of Dabu and Bagru as well as tie-&-dye Indigo such as clamp-drying and Bandhini,” says Anita.

Reminiscing the Blues

Good Earth’s 2017 Sustain apparel introduces two collections—Naimat and Nilofer. They tell a story about India’s heritage reminiscent of Indigo colour. Good Earth’s designer Shalini Sethi says, “Good Earth has designed the collection with 100 per cent natural dyes in Indigo on season-friendly fabrics.”

Captivating the Colour

Fabindia’s signature summer offering, Indigo, covers bold block prints, Dabu and Ajrakh to clamp dyes, tie-&-dye, Kalamkari and Shibori. Beautiful surfaces have been created using ‘cracked batik’ effects with Dabu.

Head of Creative & Craft Cluster Development & Livelihood Impact of Fabindia, Anuradha Kumra says, “The new repertoire is inspired from the architecture of the Mysore Palace and historical sites of Srirangapatna making it a must-have.”

Known for her signature organic saris in natural or Indigo tones, Mumbai-based designer Anavila Misra says, “For me, working with Indigo is more like a ritual. It involves steps which have to be meticulously followed. It takes immensely trained hands to get it right.” Her latest collection is Indigo Musing Mumbai.

Sassy Indie-Boho Look

“Indigo is chic and gives an effortless spunk to your look. If you are all up for some accessorising, pick up Indigo Moss Tote Bag in vibrant Shibori,” says designer Vasundhara Sharma, founder of Orunie, Delhi.
To add a little funk, work them up with blue-fringed earrings, each ear having a different shade of indigo. Perfect add-on would be a sassy pair of reflector shades!

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