Palak Shah feels 2018 is Ekaya’s year. And rightly so. For in its first ever global venture, the luxury handloom label has collaborated with Paris-based Fédération Française de la Création Couture Sur Mesure in an ongoing exhibition that demonstrates how Indian fabrics can be part of the French couture and wedding industry.
All 14 members of the federation, which includes notable designers such as Fanny Liautard, Aurelle Dillon, Letz Martin and Isabelle Beaumenay Joannet, have expressed their creativity in 14 bespoke garments using fabrics entirely from Ekaya. The 15th creation is by American designer Colleen Quen, who is a guest of honour at the exhibition. “All these outfits are part of an installation that translates our country’s indigenous heritage to appeal to a larger audience,” explains Palak, Ekaya’s CEO.
“While the first selection of the fabrics was made from the Ekaya Thaan gallery, we did create some special pieces later keeping in mind the need of the designers. The palette is muted, focusing on white and gold, and the materials used are our signature brocades from Benares, along with silks, cotton, georgettes, chiffons, tussar, organza, mashru and chikankari,” Shah explains.
Every year, during the French capital’s haute couture fashion week, the Fédération Francaise de la Creation Couure Sur Mesure organises an annual event which celebrates the knowhow of its members in partnership with the greatest weavers of the world, in a luxurious Parisian venue. This time, the partner is Ekaya and the venue is the plush Sofitel Le Faubourg. Titled Cousu D’or Magical Weaving, the exhibition opened on January 22 and will be on till February 25.
Clearly, if going global could be measured in leaps, this stride is gigantic enough to cross an ocean. But this success has come after relentless hard work and meticulous planning for the last one-and-half years when Palak, the label’s CEO discussed the proposition with luxury consultant Veronique Poles who since 2013 has been facilitating such meaningful collaborations between the Federation and design and fashion organisations from all over the world.
“This is a rare opportunity to showcase the beauty, versatility and power of Indian weaves. Ever since we launched Ekaya, we wanted Indian textiles to stand for impeccable craftsmanship, inventiveness and subtle sophistication. If we kept using the same old methods the craft would continue to struggle. This is one huge avenue where luxury weaves of India are being fitted into a global design aesthetic and vocabulary. We have been working on that from the very beginning and pulling all the right stops,” says Shah.
The fact that Indian weaves can be used in western gowns and silhouettes is something these highly acclaimed designers have brought to the fore, Shah says, adding that these have only been showcased as art pieces and will not be selling from the racks.
At the opening, Shah, who is known for her keen sartorial choices, turned up in a white kora silk sari because she has always believed in the concept of ‘India Proud.’ “The sari was made with the same fabric that one of the designers used for a gown. The point is take Indian weaves out of the closet of convention by projecting how stylishly malleable they can get.”
“This project adds steam to my vision to create a fabric archival destination in India that I nurtured since my MBA days at Babson, Boston.” The event, feels Shah, is for a better cause where the western audience will get a thorough knowledge about Indian weaves and crafts and will also be a platform for the promotion of the handcrafted textiles of Ekaya in France.
“It is high time Indian textiles go global. We are taking small but sure steps. Maybe soon we will see them cross over to the international runway, defying stereotypes and mindsets. This collaboration is symptomatic of inching towards that greater glory.” Clearly, the growth graph is carefully being drawn by this enterprising young woman.