The first thing that hits me is the smell of cocoa from a chocolate factory across the river. A bucolic scene of wooden timbered buildings, peat meadows, reeds growing along the edges of the water, flocks of birds in the air, windmills painted a bright leaf green, and winding paths with cyclists silhouetted against the picturesque background of the Zaan River and the Kalver polder.
It is love at first sight. If you are a lazy traveller like me, then Zaanse Schans (ZAHN-ze skhahns) will appeal to you. This recreated 17th century town, just 15 minutes by train from downtown Amsterdam, puts various elements of Dutch culture and heritage—from cheesemaking to wooden shoe carving—in a tidy package. Though this collection of loosely-related attractions in a pretty park with old houses is undeniably touristy, it’s a handy way to get a window into Dutch culture.
This open air museum started as the dream of architect Jaap Schipper, who wanted to preserve history and culture.
In the 60s, houses from around the region were transplanted here using giant cranes and trailers. Located on the Zaan River in the town of Zaandijk, the museum is devoted to the traditional lifestyles along the Zaan.
Up to the age of steam, this area was lined with hundreds of windmills, which harnessed wind power to produce flour, cacao, and spices and paint. “Most of the exhibits are run by quirky locals who’ve found their niche in life. Whatever you see here is genuine and real. Locals live in those homes,” explains our guide.
Until 1400, Holland was a web of wetlands, swamps and marshes separated from the sea by a belt of dunes. The resilient Dutch put up sea defences and built dams to disconnect the water from the sea. Windmills were used to drain lakes, swamps and wetlands. The windmills played crucial roles in various industries, and were used for cutting wooden logs for furniture, grinding spices, cacao, colour pigments and linseed or peanuts for oil.
A handful of functioning windmills have been converted into museums. Each is used for a different purpose. The De Kat Windmill, which was completed in 1782, still provides pigments and paint to artists and restorers.
I walk along the charming wooden houses with their dark green walls, white window frames and terracotta roofs. Many houses have genuine Dutch families living in them, paying affordable rent in return for maintaining them in their original state, though they have to put up with tourists peeping at them through their lace curtains.
Part of the Zaanse Schans is an interesting wooden clog museum with clog roller skates, betrothal clogs, and many other unique clogs. Clogs, the typical wooden shoes, were worn because of the boggy Dutch soil; they are still worn in the countryside.
At the Albert Heijn Museum Shop, I get a feel of the 19th century grocer shop with herbs, liquorice and candy in glass jars and a hand-cranked coffee grinder. At the Cheese Farm I watch a cheese-making demonstration, and sample free cheese. I see large wheels of regular Gouda, smoked Gouda with herbs, Gouda with chilies, and even neon green Gouda with pesto! At the Museum of Dutch Clockwork, is a wonderful collection of clocks through history.
What’s special about a Dutch pancake? I discover that at the De Kraai Pancake restaurant in an old warehouse with a tiled fireplace, where sweet or savory varieties are eaten as a main course. My sweet tooth gets the better of me as I gorge on pancakes with a variety of toppings ranging from cinnamon and raisins to apricot jam, whipped cream, pineapples and blueberries.
Spending a lazy day in this open-air living museum with all the traditional Dutch icons like windmills, cheese and clogs is a relaxing throwback to the olden times and really feels like time travel.