The Malvani cuisine boasts of the best of all. It is rich, varied and has a distinctive taste, texture, colour and flavour to it. The liberal use of coconut in all its forms—grated, dry, fried, paste and coconut milk—with a dash of kokum (Garcinia Indica) that gives its delicacies a sweet-and-sour taste, the generous tadka of curry leaves and not to forget the special Malvani masala, there’s a lot about this regional cuisine that makes it a foodie’s delight.
With roots in the southern coast of Maharashtra, Goa and parts of Karnataka, the cuisine gets its name from Malvan, a picturesque town situated in the valleys of Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra. “What makes Malvani food special are the ingredients used and cooking methods. There’s a wide range to be explored and based on the use of staple ingredients, the food could vary in taste—mild, sour or spicy. Only fresh coconut is used, and spices are also different,” says Sharmila Shaligram, an experienced chef and food blogger, now based in Manipal near Udupi. She is fondly called Chef Shami in the culinary circles.
Explaining the use of kokum, Shami says, “It helps beat the heat and humidity, aids digestion, curbs acidity and acts as a natural coolant for the body. Together with coconut, it takes care of the panch tatvas of the body.” Citing the use of two staple drinks made of kokum, she says, “Omad is made of kokum skin soaked in warm water with chilli and salt, while Sol Kadhi is a pink-coloured appetiser made from the kokum fruit and coconut milk.” These two are good as stand-alone drinks, but a must-have after a Malvani meal.
The ubiquitous use of kokum and coconut, coupled with the bright red Malvani masala that is a powdered mixture of condiments such as Tirphal, Konkan chillies, peppercorns, mace, star anise, fennel seeds, nutmeg, cardamom and coriander, gives the food fiery, red tinge to its food. “Coconut paste and powdered masala give a different taste to food,” says Akshay V Salvi, owner of Mumbai-based Malvani restaurant Ratnagari Katta.
The cooking methods vary based on the preparation. “It is either pan-fried, or deep-fried. If it is a curry, it is simmered on low heat for that special flavour,” says Salvi. Among the non-vegetarian items, Shami says, “Kombdi Wade is the signature Malvani dish. It is chicken cooked in Malvani masala with coconut-based curry. The Wade is multigrain or rice and millet-mix dough, made into small flat doughnuts with a small hole in the centre, and deep-fried.”
Malvani food is heavily non-vegetarian. Chef Shami explains it is primarily because not many vegetables are grown in this region. “Most vegetables like string beans, pumpkin, etc., are dry fried, using coconut and a tadka of asafoetida, mustard seeds and curry leaves. Another vegetable that is used all over is drumstick. It is added to anything and everything,” she says.
Going by the look, the preparation appears complex. “Actually, it is quite simple. Fish and chicken are often marinated with salt, and kokum and ginger-garlic paste, red chilli paste and turmeric; and later coated in a mixture of either rice flour or semolina before being fried,” says Rupesh Kambli, a young advertising professional based out of Mumbai, a native of Malvan and a foodie who can dish out Surmai Fry, which also happens to be his favourite, in no time.
The Malvani cuisine has a lot to offer to those who have a sweet tooth. “The must-try sweet items are Khaproli (a pancake made of rice and urad dal, dipped in a syrup made of jaggery, coconut and cardamom), Sasam (cubed fruits mixed with a paste of coconut, red chillies, mustard seeds, tamarind pulp, and jaggery), and the typical Dhonde (a baked preparation made from cucumber, rava, and jaggery),” adds Chef Shami, ending the gastronomic trip across the Malvani cuisine on a sweet note.