The theory that need dictates trends is not generally true in the world of cosmetics. The business of beauty often depends on creating a need. The entry of Shankara Naturals, a luxury Ayurvedic skincare brand that was available only in the US, recently into India is clear sign of the growing demand for original Indian products in the country. At the launch, Astha Katpitia, Head, Shankara Naturals India, said, “Shankara was crafted by harnessing the rich, ancient wisdom of Ayurveda along with scientific advancements of the modern world.” Bringing Ayurveda back to India is an irony, but amply supported by numbers.
According to a joint study by Assocham and MRSSIndia.com, the market size of India’s beauty cosmetics and grooming is expected to touch $35 billion by 2035 from the current level of $6.5 billion. The herbal cosmetic industry is expected to grow at a rate of 12 percent in India, says the report.
Indian beauty went corporate in 1971 when Shahnaz Hussain launched her eponympous and iconic brand of natural cosmetics. Roughly two decades later came Vandana Luthra’s VLCC. Fast forward to 2018 and suddenly the natural cosmetics market has surged forward. The Assocham-MRSSIndia.com report also adds that overseas markets have great demand for Indian herbal and natural cosmetic products with exports to countries such as the UAE, the US, the Netherlands, Germany, Japan, Malaysia, Nepal, Sri Lanka, the UK, China, Indonesia, France, Russia, and Italy. In India, in the past one year alone, more than half a dozen brands have been introduced to the natural beauty care market. Some of them are: Omorfee, Orhia, Mamaearth, Shankara Naturals, Arata.
Euromonitor International’s recent research states that by 2019, India will emerge as a primary growth market. Within skin care, there is a growing trend that is veering towards natural and organic products infused with ‘pure’ ingredients. Exotic is the new buzzword.
The Assocham report also reveals that 71 percent consumers prefer ‘natural’ face cream or lotion over other similar products. About 38 percent said they would buy hair products containing ‘botanical’ ingredients. Mamaearth recently launched a range of toxin-free face washes based on natural actives like charcoal, coffee, turmeric, tea tree oil, etc. The brand believes in going back to roots, hence the use of herbal ingredients that have been a part of Indian beauty regime for ages.
Brands such as Arata, another new entrant, have rounded up plant-based ingredients from across the globe to make safe, transparent and effective personal care products. Carefully procured from farmers practising ethical farming techniques in France, Japan and India, the ingredients are safe and non-toxic. The brand promises that once absorbed by the hair and skin, these nutrients work symbiotically with the body’s essential processes, helping one look and feel vibrant and healthy. The range currently includes body wash, face wash, hair cream, hair gel, natural shampoo, and lip balm with ingredients such as honeysuckle flower, lemon oil and blueberry extracts.
SoulTree and Shankara Naturals are taking the trend forward. SoulTree started its journey with the Pure Black Kajal and has developed a range of BB creams, lip-glosses and mascaras.Shankara Naturals claims to 100 percent natural vegan skincare. A film changed the life of Shankar Prasad, who started Plum, India’s first homegrown vegan cosmetic brand. Watching scenes of cosmetics testing on caged rabbits in Ship of Theseus by Anand Gandhi, Prasad vowed that he would create a cruelty-free beauty brand. At HUL, he managed Pears soap factory and at Everstone Capital, he was in the founding team of Faces cosmetics in India. Prasad also discovered the hypocrisy of animal testing in the beauty industry: the PETA-approved list of brands that did not test products on animals is not applicable in India.
Natural and cruelty-free beauty products are coming of age in India. Awareness and globalisation—organic products are a large chunk of the Western cosmetics bazaar—has spurred at home rediscovery of Ayruveda, albeit with better packaging.