On Scotland’s western coast near Lochalsh, almost at the tip of the Scottish Highlands, is the gloriously palindromic village of Glenelg. Otherwise perceived to be nondescript, the village has the distinction of being paired with a hypothetical place on Mars, which was named Glenelg four years ago. However, the naming of Scotland’s Glenelg goes back over 2,000 years.
Just outside the village, a narrow road snakes its way past lush green meadows and countryside-skirting green fences and hedgerows. In the middle of this verdant landscape, standing in splendid isolation, is a gigantic conical stone tower, rising more than 30 feet. Called a ‘broch’, there’s wild speculation about its ancestry, with some estimates taking it back to the Neolithic age. However, it is commonly believed that these structures came up during the Iron Age with the majority of them being constructed between 100 BC and AD 100.
It is estimated that there are more than 500 of these all over the Scottish Highlands, but most are concentrated in Sutherland, Caithness and in the Orkney and Shetland islands. There are also a large number of them in the Hebrides, scattered from the west coast of Lewis to Skye, as well as Dumfries, Galloway and near Stirling. Some are in utter ruins, but some have been remarkably preserved, such as Dun Telve and Dun Torddan just outside Glenelg.
Just like its ancestry, there’s also no consensus on their purpose. Dun Telve is more accessible and is just by the side of the road. It seems untouched and complete, but is open on the far side. The intimidating structure, with the stone wall rising high into the sky, has a narrow doorway, and tall visitors have to stoop a bit to enter.
Inside, it is quickly evident that the tower is double-walled, with about 4-5 feet between the walls; they are visibly thicker at the base than at the top. In the centre is an open circular courtyard, about 10-15 feet in diameter, which is bare and open to the sky. It is not clear whether it had been covered or left open. Between the walls, the structure is surprisingly intricate with cells, stairways and nooks. Between the walls are galleries and rooms at multiple levels, which can be accessed by stairs. Experts believe that the ground floor cells were used as storage rooms, while the higher levels were for living. There are also ledges in the walls, and there is speculation that timber might have been used to create rafters and partitions.
There is widespread speculation about the purpose of the brochs; they might have had a number of uses. While the strong structure points to its function as a defensive structure, with entire communities possibly living inside, it is also probable that they were built as farm buildings with provision for herding livestock, especially sheep. Some of them are quite elegant and have an elaborate design, indicating that they could have housed the elite. There are others with the provision to change the size of the rooms, indicating there might have been varying number of inmates, or they could have been used for a variety of purposes depending on the circumstances.
As you walk around the structure, there is complete silence with just the occasional gust of wind creating eerie noises as it rushes through nooks and walls.
A rather elaborate sketch at the entrance, an artist’s impression of what it might have looked like in its heyday, is the perfect fuel to fire the imagination. It is fun to stand in the middle and imagine what it would have looked like when it was bustling with people and animals. It leaves the visitor wondering what stories the stones would tell if they could talk.
Factfile
Brochs are found all over the Scottish Highlands. Dun Telve and Dun Troddan are near Lochalsh on Scotland’s West coast overlooking the Isle of Skye. How to reach: Glenelg is about 300 km to the North of Edinburgh, hich is well connected by flights from India.