In the off chance you go against the grain while in Goa and avoid beaches completely, (like I did), you are likely to wander into a small village called Nerul in North Goa. Here, tucked away elegantly on the banks of the river Sinquerim, is Sol De Goa. With the calm river on one side and lush paddy fields bordered by fresh green hillocks on the other, it provides a subtle counterpoint to its more opulent neighbour, LPK (the party place, as it likes to be known), which makes its presence felt even several kilometres away, with its flashy inviting signboards dotting the roads that lead to it.
Once a getaway for distinguished Portuguese officials, Sol was redesigned, renamed and restored by its current owner, Suraj Morajkar. Designed by Tarun Tahiliani with strong Goan influences and a classic Portuguese feel, the property includes four suites, two deluxe suites and 15 rooms. All these hug a beautiful central courtyard pool, flanked by exquisite pottery.
Walking into the hotel, I took in the art, Zen-like foliage, shelves lined with coffee table books, antique cupboards and tables, pool deck and a wooden staircase leading up to my suite with a stunning views of paddy fields leading to the river and the twin towers of Our Lady of Hope church at a distance. And yet, it is less than a five-minute drive from Candolim Beach.
The four-poster beds are handcrafted, the cupboards are beautifully aged, and the windows generous. There is an abundance of natural light and serenity; it feels like you’ve stepped back in time to the luxury of old Goa.
The Sol bar and restaurant open onto a terrace by a second pool, where views of fields and jackfruit trees await you. There is a lot of attention to detail with the food, catering to a global palette with local ingredients. I was there around Ganesh Chaturthi and the chef gave me a masterclass in Mangane, a traditional festive goan kheer.
Sol De Goa’s Thursday jazz nights still beckon the who’s who of Goa, and anyone with a leg to shake can be found on the dance floor, shimmying to a curated live band.
The next morning, I relished my breakfast of pancakes with fresh strawberry butter, listening to sunbirds and bulbuls, recalling that just that night before, the place was bustling with a different kind of energy, and yet transforming so beautifully during the day.
Sol de Goa, Bhatiwado Nerul, Bardez, Goa.
www.soldegoa.com