It is possible to drive for miles and miles in Nevada, the US, without laying eyes on another soul or vehicle. The road stretches till the horizon in a straight line, dipping into valleys and cresting over small hills. Much of the landscape is barren. In the far distance are mountain peaks, some tinged with snow.
The desolate landscape is occasionally broken by interesting landmarks and unusual sights. Just outside Fallon is a series of gentle rises and valleys, rocky and with little vegetation. The landscape is strewn with boulders and pebbles, and forms a large archaeological complex. Of this, Grimes Point is the main one with its vast collection of stunning and mysterious petroglyphs, or rock art.
Among the largest and most easily accessible petroglyph sites in the US, Grimes Point has hundreds of massive boulders, which have art carved on them. Widely believed to have been the handiwork of Native Americans, historians and geologists differ on how old the petroglyphs might be. However, there is consensus that during the Pleistocene Epoch (approximately 2.58 million to 11,700 years ago), the entire area was covered by the ancient lake of Lahontan, with an estimated surface area of a staggering 22,000 sq km. Almost all of it disappeared 9,000 years ago, turning the area around Grimes Point into marshland. It is speculated it was first visited by Native Americans 8,000 years ago.
Standing at a vantage point on Grimes Point, it is difficult to imagine that a freshwater lake existed here. It would have been inhabited by water birds, aquatic plants, greenery, trees by the shore and wildlife such as deer and antelope, which probably explains the diversity in the carvings on the boulders. The shallow etchings reveal many shapes—waves, squiggles, circles and other geometric patterns and abstract forms, and also animal and human figures, birds, snakes, and even snowflake patterns.
The basalt boulders are a deep chocolate brown, almost glossy, and called desert varnish, with the etchings slightly paler in colour. Underneath, where the sun and the wind have less chance of touching, the boulders are lighter in colour, indicating patina formation, a process resulting from chemical changes over eons. Interestingly, when the petroglyphs were inscribed, they would have been much lighter in colour. But over time, the same patinate process darkened the petroglyphs too but there is a subtle difference in shade, enough to clearly detect them. It is this patination process that has provided vital clues to archaeologists on dating the site and other geological events.
The petroglyphs occur over a large area, but are concentrated densely at Grimes Point. A clearly marked trail, winding around for nearly half a kilometre, lets visitors undertake a self-guided walk. Some of the more evocative petroglyphs are fronted by interpretative boards explaining certain aspects. However, there is no definitive answer to the meaning of the etchings or the intention behind them; archaeologists speculate they could mean a variety of things, ranging from religion to economy.
Behind Grimes Point, the larger archaeological complex spreads over a many square kilometres. Roughly 2 km to the east of the petroglyphs and accessed through a rough path is a low rocky hillock strewn with pebbles and loose gravel. A 15-minute climb, a bit slippery and steep in places, leads to a little shelter which hides the opening to a cave.
Called the Hidden Cave, the entrance is narrow and can be navigated by crawling. Inside, the smell of ammonia is rather overpowering, but once acquainted with the darkness, it is surprising to find the cave sprawling and with steps and pathways. It is believed it was used to store food, grains, implements, weapons and tools.
From the foot of the hill, Hidden Cave is not visible, indicating how cleverly disguised it was when it was chosen for this purpose. And as you leave, it’s difficult not to speculate what else the area might be hiding.