An early morning flight, a masala dosa and a six-hour drive from Bengaluru bring you to an oasis of idyllic calm and peace. Kabini is Karnataka’s very own Eden, hidden away in a lush, verdant landscape at the foothills of the Nilgiris and watered by the tranquil Kabini river. The songs of rare birds are symphonic to the lapping waters of the river, as one gently sails from the mainland to the lush vestige of the Indian tiger, the Nagarhole National Park, for a rendezvous with the wild.
A tryst with the life of tribals unveils one of India’s most endearing folk traditions. The Kuruba peoples of Kabini are as intriguing in their ethos as they are in their way of life and hospitality. A protected tribe, they are renowned for their age-old harmony with the wild rather than interaction with humans. It is believed that after the fall of the Pallava Empire, many Kurubas settled in south India as small land owners and farmers. On the other hand, many are said to have been hiding in the forests and adapted to the environment and to the wild, developing their own distinct culture as a result of their isolation.
Sunset soirees of Kuruba dance and music enliven audiences from the world over. A close knit band of local performers in traditional white attires ready themselves for an evening of high-voltage synergy at Orange County, Kabini’s cultural haven and the biggest platform for the locals to express their art and culture. Using fire to heat the animal skin drum tops by increasing the tightness of the membrane, they make magic with rhythm, which plays a vital role in most tribal music and dance ceremonies.
Generally led by a village elder, instruments resembling the ‘Thavil’ drum and Nadaswaram-like bugles render hypnotic grooves as the band of dancers gyrate energetically.
Speaking their own dialect with Kannada being their lingua franca, the locals are welcoming despite linguistic barriers. Thatched, mud-plastered, eco-designed huts called haddis are humble leitmotif homes of the Kurubas. Meat being a popular staple, meen Saru with red boiled rice (spicy river fish) and pork harididu (minced pork) are among the famous Kuruba delicacies.
A mesmerising maze of tall trees under a pristine blue sky suggests that you are well into the coffee capital of Asia. A three-hour drive from Kabini brings you to the sprawling coffee plantations of Coorg, or Kodagu, home to the Kodava tribe. An ancient people, the Kodavas are elegant, energetic and exceptional in their culinary and musical talents. Of warrior origin, they took to agriculture but reflect the boisterous, raw energy in their dances.
Acrobatics are an integral part of their ceremonies. Under a moonlit sky at the Orange County ground, hypnotic drumming sets the mood for balancing acts, whirling and dances. Draped in classy turbans and black overcoats, a regal touch distinguishes them from the humbly-clad Kurubas. The fiery warrior aggression is the underlying nuance of their music and dance.
A gentle boat cruise down the Kaveri offers a first-hand encounter with life on its banks. One might be startled by rapid gun shots shattering the stillness. “That is to announce the arrival of the tribe’s newborn,” smiles the guide.
Essentially meat-eaters, porkfinds a special place in Kodava cuisine, while the use of jackfruit, spices and coconut is extensive. Pandi curry (pork curry) and spicy Kozhi (chicken) are a must-try for meat-lovers. Akki roti made of rice flour and kummu curry, a wild plant mushroom delicacy, are among the vegetarian Kodava delights. And of course, sipping premium local Sidapur Coffee early morning to the chirping of birds is a fine way to usher in the innocence of dawn.