The serene thunder dragon
The first thing that struck me from the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten atop the hill was the enchanting view of the Punakha valley. Misty mountains, meandering rivers, terraced rice fields, elegant houses and sturdy farmers in the fields; all so characteristic of the ‘Thunder Dragon’ that is Bhutan. Punakha was the capital of Bhutan until 1955 before Thimphu. It is still the winter residence of Je Khenpo, the head of the central monastic body of Bhutan.
A short drive from Punakha Dzong lies the longest iron suspension bridge in Mitsegang. The pedestrian bridge with mooing cows and neighing ponies crossing over the gurgling stream perks your spirits as it sways while windswept flags flutter noisily all along.
As we moved forward, the first leg of hike through rice fields and beans climbers was easy but it got steeper and moderately challenging as we gradually ascended the forested hill.
Midway there was a huge prayer wheel where I stopped for a while to admire the sweeping vista of the valley below. Inside the Chorten, the gleaming Buddha statues, vibrant thangkas and the painted walls screamed for attention. It was so uplifting and serene at the top.
It was spring time in Bhutan that lasts from March to May when colourful floral blooms decorate the valley. As the snow thaws and winter chill gives way to cool weather in late February, first signs of vegetation spring up from ground, the entire country wakes up to the pleasing hues of peaches, apples, mustard, magnolia, rhododendrons and wild cherries. It was the time for celebrating Talo Tshechu festival (March 7-9), known for its mask dances.
The farmers start ploughing for the new season of corn, millet, buckwheat, chillies, potatoes and rice. Red and white rice are grown in Punakha along the river valleys of Pho Chu and Mo Chu, the two most important rivers in Bhutan.
The evening we arrived in Punakha, we walked to the Chimi Lhakhang Temple through the rice fields in Sopsakha village. Known as the temple of fertility, built in 1499, it is blessed by the Saint Drukpa Kunley. Revered as the divine madman, he was known to subdue demons and restore peace in the region.
We met several cherubic young monks and sprightly teenagers playing football along the way. As ubiquitous in every place in Bhutan, the prayer flags fluttered along the way but what was conspicuous there were paintings of phallic symbols on walls of houses.
The Bhutanese considered it auspicious and at the temple, women sought blessings for children and were blessed with an ivory and wooden phallus.
A visit to the grandiose Punakha Dzong was a visual treat. Built in 1637, it continues to be the winter home of the monastic order of Bhutan. It was here that the present King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck was married to his beloved Jetsun Pema.