Footsteps beyond the sand

At India’s first marine national park in the Gulf of Kutch, you don’t need to snorkel or scuba-dive to see the underwater life.
Footsteps beyond the sand

Karma for marine life watchers is seeing shoals of iridescent fish shivering through the currents, octopuses squirting black ink upon sensing human intrusion, jelly fish opening their colourful bouquets and sleek dolphins skimming the surface of the ocean to disappear again in a flash of dark silver. Narara, located 60 km from Jamnagar is part of the Marine National Park situated on the southern shore of Gulf of Kutch in Gujarat, where marine life can be seen in their natural habitat without having to snorkel or scuba-dive in the sea. The way to the seaside of the Gulf of Kutch is lined with mangroves and their aerial roots suspended. Mangroves can survive in extreme conditions, be it saline or with less oxygen.

They are also considered sentinels that protect the coast from natural disasters such as tsunamis, cyclones and hurricanes, and guard the coastline by slowing the speed of winds as well as waves. A closer look at the sand reveals trails left by small shells, each a home to a tiny hermit crab.Depending on the season, Flamingoes and Pelicans appear in saltpans just before reaching Narara.

“The recommended time to visit Narara is 3.5 hours after the high tide. It is when the tide ebbs and the reef is exposed. Also ensure that you leave the reef 3.5 hours before the next high tide. Wear sun hats and caps. Footwear should be waterproof and closed ones preferably. Remember not to wear flip flops as they get stuck in the mud,” advises veteran guide Mustak Mepani who has been organising marine and bird trips around Jamnagar for the past two decades.

As the water recedes, left behind are channels of seawater and rock pools filled with sea plants resembling cartilages, and colourful sponges growing on sea rocks, while seaweed and moss interrupt the spaces in between. And the beach floods with more birds than have been seen in months, feeding on the bodies of creatures abandoned by the tide. The Gulf of Kutch is home to 52 species of hard coral and 12 species of soft corals apart from diverse flora and fauna. It generally takes four-five hours to explore the 2.5 km coral walk at Narara.

Spotting crabs is easy here. A blue coloured crustacean could be a Neptune crab, which is named after the god of the sea, though the connection is not apparent. Another crab found here is the Wolf crab which sports brown spiky hair. Much of the marine fauna here shelter under the rocks during the day, away from the burning sun. Sabella is a deceptive denizen of the sea, resembling  a fern in appearance but is actually a worm. It is the ‘touch me not’ of the ocean. Once it senses your approach, it quickly disappears into the seabed. Sea anemones have a symbiotic relationship with shrimps and often, a shrimp or two can be found in their company. “These anemone shrimps are naturally painted with hues of yellow, white and black. They are so transparent that one can even see their brains,” explains Mustak. 

Puffer fish are more elusive and are well versed in the art of deception that evolution has trained them in millennia ago. When they feel threatened, they puff themselves up by drinking water and ballooning up to twice their original size as their name suggests. As one ventures deeper into the sea bed, the water becomes clearer, the seaweeds are more abundant and more coral is visible in colourful clusters of green, brown, and white. Their shapes vary from the human brain to stars and even the moon. Avian life at Narara includes Crab Plovers, Sand Plovers, Oyster Catchers, Ruddy Turnstones, Red Shanks, Green Shanks, Terns, Storks and Egrets.

The best experience in witnessing and learning about marine life is gained when it is done at one’s own pace. At Narara there is no guessing what will be found next and where. On Mother Nature’s own treasure hunt, there are  surprises tucked in nooks and crevices of the Gujarat coast. 

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The New Indian Express
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