HYDERABAD : During my visit to Porto, a lovely coastal city in northwest Portugal, my guide Carolina suggested that I buy a book in Porto and take it home. Buying a book in Porto seemed rather odd when Porto is more famous for its wines. Seeing my puzzled look, she led me to “Livraria Lello” – a most beautiful bookstore that looks more like an architectural masterpiece than a conventional bookshop. It is considered one of the most popular monuments in Porto, going by a large number of people queuing up in front of the shop for an entry on a daily basis. No visitor to Porto misses this interesting tourist attraction.
Love for books
The second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon, Porto dates back to around 300 BC. As we walked in the downtown Porto, on narrow cobbled streets that wind past merchants’ houses and cafes, Carolina educated me on the literary scene of Portugal. Reading is still very popular amongst the Portuguese and Portugal is said to be one of the greatest destinations for book lovers. “Livraria Lello & Irmao” is the second oldest bookshop in Portugal after “Bertrand” in Lisbon, which is the oldest bookstore in the world (open since 1732). Two brothers, both prominent members of Porto’s intellectual bourgeoisie of that century, opened Lello bookstore in 1906. It was built with reinforced concrete, a rarity in the nineteenth-century and was inaugurated with much fanfare. Those days, in the absence of media, books and newspapers were much coveted to look for cultural trends and fodder for social debates.
Classy exterior
Flanked by neighbouring shops, the building stands out with a beautiful neo-gothic façade that has art nouveau elements. On the first floor, the main feature is a striking bated arch, divided into three veins, with the central arch providing entrance into the building and decorative lateral windows, each surmounted by flag adapted to the archway. Above this arch are three elongated rectangular windows flanked by two painted figures representing “Art” and “Science”. Finishing the facade are squared plaits surmounted by three decorated pinnacles, with two pilasters on either side, topped by pinnacles of equal design. Decorative elements complete the facade with alternating geometric shapes that circuit and the firm’s name over the bow, all painted in vivid colours that highlight the white paint on the façade.
Stunning interior
The facade is only surpassed by its stunning interior, with implied Art Deco elements. The iconic red and gold staircase and the intricate detail on the exquisite walls stand out. The 26 ft x 11 ft stained glass window in the ceiling adds an amazing detail with Lello’s monogram “Decus in Labore” meaning “dignity in work”. The forked staircase connects to a gallery on the first floor with a detailed wooden balustrade. The ceiling and interiors are treated exhaustively with painted plaster, designed to resemble sculpted wood surfaces and decorative elements. The bookstore still retains the rails and wooden cart once used to move books around the store between the shelves. There is a special door of rare and old books department, which is a real treasure for book lovers.
The birth of Harry Potter!
It is rumoured that JK Rowling’s inspiration to write Harry Potter has begun in Porto, particularly at this bookshop. The well-known writer lived in Porto for ten years working as an English teacher in the early 1990s and she used to drink a cup of coffee on the second floor of Lello’s bookstore. Harry Potter fans may find similarities between Lello’s staircase and the one described in Hogwarts. It is also believed that the Hogwarts’ costume was inspired by the costumes of college students in Portugal, consisting of a black suit and a black coat – these students are mostly found around the shop, as the headquarters of the Porto University are located nearby.
The take away
However, one can enjoy the magnificence of the building for a small fee (which is deducted from the cost of one’s purchases): I found mostly Portuguese books and only a small section with English books.
The shop was crowded with visitors: some silently admiring the iconic building; some browsing the books; and few lost in their pursuit of sketching. Buying a book here certainly makes for a unique experience and later comes in handy when you want to boast of your fine taste (!) Picturesque postcards were also available to take back home as souvenirs.
Photography is allowed inside the shop: I noticed most people taking pictures and leaving, while only a fraction of them bought any books. It is estimated that Lello gets around 4,000 visitors a day. I realised that if visual beauty of the ambience is added to places where reading material is sold maybe there will be more buyers and readers. Who knows? There can be even more authors, inspired by such surroundings!Book or bottle? Yes, you guessed it right. I bought a lovely postcard and kept my money for some classic Vintage Port Wine to take back home!(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer; she blogs at vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)