Two towering mud walls made of packed earth between which runs a long and slim path are green with moss and exudes the smell of damp mud. They seemed to have miraculously risen up from hard earth like the Pandora from Avatar. Rising 70-80 feet, they dwarf people meandering at the far end of the path. The walkway itself abruptly ends at a massive courtyard, equivalent to several football fields, with a series of steps that lead to a huge bronze statue of the Hindu mythological bird, Garuda. This statue forms part of the main highlight of the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park in the Badung area of Bali.
Spread over 60 hectares, the park, located on a limestone plateau, is higher than the rest of the surroundings. Developed as a major tourist attraction of Bali, the park’s theme is taken from Hindu mythology. At its centre stands Lord Vishnu upon his mount Garuda. Together they tower up into the sky, 120 metres high. The two statues are yet to be amalgamated, since they had been first established in two separate locations in the park.
The 18-metre high Garuda image is done in thick bronze sheet and set over an elaborate armature and scaffolding. It sits at one end of the area called the Lotus Pond, designed as an outdoor gathering space for large events, including a concert by heavy metal band Iron Maiden and pop band Paramore. The form looks dramatic from a distance and is intimidating at close quarters. Yet it has a serene feel. A little distance away from the Garuda statue stands the soaring form of Vishnu, rising up 75 metres.
Even before the two installations, the park had been quite popular with local visitors and tourists alike, boasting of various sights and activities. The entire space is crisscrossed by long narrow paths, holding secrets like a tranquil pond surrounded by lush landscaping and statues of mythological figures. A series of giant carvings in stone depicts characters from Hindu epics, especially from the Ramayana. Statues of Rama, Lakshmana, Ravana and other divine figures, done in Balinese style, line the corridors that lead to a small auditorium, where traditional kecak shows are held. A massive serpent done in black granite curves down the balustrade along long narrow flight of steps.
From time to time, a little enclosure near the Vishnu statue comes alive with the sounds of lilting music and staccato drum beats. They set the mood for the beautifully clad Balinese dancer, who arrives soon and enthralls the audience with her graceful movements, all the while holding an open paper fan in her delicate hands. As the tunes pick up tempo, her movements become vigorous and captivating.
Then suddenly the music stops after reaching the crescendo and an abrupt silence falls over the stage under the deep, calm gaze of Vishnu. The Lord seems satisfied with the peformance, as inscrutable his expression may be. While the evening shadows deepen through the coming twilight, the park and its environs turn into a surreal vista as the lines between myth and reality blur to present a haunting picture of alternative reality.
Factfile
The park is in Badung area.
How to reach: Many carriers offer flights from Indian metros to Bali’s capital Denpasar. The park is about 20 minutes’ drive from the airport, but you will have to hire a taxi since there is no public transport.