Mumbai: The city of fortune

Holding stories of success and enormous struggle, Mumbai is a fairy-tale place of decadent pleasures and luxuries that lie right next to poverty and pain.
Customers surrounding a cobbler in Mumbai's streets.
Customers surrounding a cobbler in Mumbai's streets.

HYDERABAD: Mumbai, the most populous city is also the most fascinating: depicted through Bollywood films, written about in fiction and narrated through real-life incidents, the city holds stories of enormous struggle and success; some tales of utter failure and despair.

It is a fairy-tale place of decadent pleasures and luxuries that lies right next to poverty and pain.

Breathing life every minute, buzzing every second, fondly called Bombay by some and Mumbai by others, it is truly an endearing city. Each of my visits to Bombay was filled with different experiences and always left me wanting to explore more.

Travelling from the airport to Breach Candy my eyes caught the huge leaved canopy trees lined along the roads: they look like Badam trees from far and the flowers are like powder puffs /rain tree flowers.

After a bit of research, I came to know that these trees are called Putat / Box Fruit / Fish Poison (Barringtonia Asiatica): Marine Drive roads enjoy the rich shade of these trees.

Photo | Vijaya Pratap
Photo | Vijaya Pratap

I stayed at ‘Dil Pazir’ in Breach Candy area, a palatial Parsi house with an old- world charm: round balconies, white painted wooden French doors fitted with long and high bolts, typical of that period, huge bedrooms attached with equally ample bathrooms, spacious corridors, luxurious halls etc.

Every time I stepped out and in, I admired the Carrara marble pillars and the chandeliers at the entrance.

My driver was keen on showing me Lata Mangeshkar’s flat and Ambani’s house, which I have already seen during my previous trips: both are equally unimpressive.

By the way, every driver would be keen on showing these two and of course, Amitabh Bachan’s house figures top on this list. 

He slowed down at “Gulita”, for a “Dekho” of Isha Ambani and Anand Piramal’s 50,000-sq ft Rs 445 crore mansion with sweeping ocean views. From outside it looked uninspiring with those huge glass and steel bubbles failing to add any beauty, maybe the interiors are pretty. 

I wanted to visit the famous Mahalakshmi and Siddhivinayak temples that often figure in the news media where celebrities are occasionally caught sans makeup and the pomp associated with stars.

One of the most famous temples of Mumbai, Mahalaxmi Temple is situated on Bhulabhai Desai Road in Mahalaxmi area. Dedicated mainly to Mahalakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth, fortune and prosperity the temple was built in 1831 by Dhakji Dadaji (1760–1846), a Hindu merchant.

As I entered the narrow lane, there were two rows of people neatly dressed in white and red asking for alms, chanting “Bhikshaam dehi” with extended palms. They looked so different from the usual people seeking charity. 

They seemed educated, well groomed and looked as though just stepped out of their cars. I stopped and clicked pictures when a smiling Nandini came forward and introduced herself: they are a group of disciples of Maharishika Preeti who believe in Transformation; Enlightenment; Self-realisation and Surrender. Surrendering one’s “ego” is the key, hence the begging.

Among them, there are people holding high positions in corporates and business houses who are literally begging on the road to raise funds for a cause. 

Soon Ramesh Iyer joined us: born and brought up in Bombay, his childhood was spent in the vicinity of the temple (his school just across the road), left a lucrative profession to join this group; well to do with sons in top companies in the US and wife raising funds for an NGO, and having shed ego and surrendered to the divine, he is happy chanting “Bhikshaam dehi” and receiving alms.

I went past the various sweet shops (offerings of pershad) to the lovely pink lotus flowers arranged in puja baskets: lotus being my favourite flower I opted for the lotus-coconut offerings. 

There were no crowds and even the few people around were so quiet and the temple staff was very cordial. Photography is prohibited in the temple premises hence there were no selfie-clicking individuals. What a relief!!

Built around 1785, the history of this temple is supposedly connected with the building of the Hornby Vellard.

Apparently after portions of the sea wall of the Vellard collapsed twice, the chief engineer, named Ramji Shivji Prabhu, dreamt of a goddess statue in the sea near Worli.

A search recovered it, and he built a temple for the deity of wealth. After this, the work on the Vellard could be completed without a hitch. 

The Mahalaxmi temple contains idols of all the three Devis: Mahalakshmi flanked by Mahakali and Mahasaraswati on either side. All of them are adorned with nose rings, gold bangles and pearl necklaces.

After a peaceful darshan, during the circumambulation, I saw an ATM on the side. How thoughtful to have it right inside the temple campus!! No one needs to stop the car on busy roads and search for a spot to park. Immediately I took out my card and withdrew money not once, but twice. In the temple of wealth, it made sense to hold a good amount of cash in my hands!

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