A himalayan tryst with history

Pragpur, an idyllic village in Himachal Pradesh’s Kangra Valley, is a 45-minute drive from the railway station, Amb Andaura.
Judge’s Court
Judge’s Court

Pragpur, an idyllic village in Himachal Pradesh’s Kangra Valley, is a 45-minute drive from the railway station, Amb Andaura. We stopped at a snug little place— the Judge’s Court—that was built by Justice Sir Jai Lal between 1914 and 1918.

The owners of Judge’s Court, Vijai Lal Kuthiala Sood (and his wife Kamini), who is the grandson of Sir Lal, says, “In the mist of time memories fade and whilst we have lived in the era of the British Raj with its subtle grandeur, it was our wish to preserve this slice of history, so that successive generations may experience it.”  

The place is a laidback traveller’s haven spread across 12 acres with 30 tastefully done-up rooms that stand testament to the bygone era. Begin the day by basking in the morning sun while sipping a cup of tea, catch up on reading and even borrow a book or two from the in-house library. As the evening approaches, head to the local bar or enjoy the wintry starlit sky sitting around a crackling bonfire—a perfect recipe for a leisurely holiday.

Perhaps, the only thing that disappoints is the food. In the hills, especially at a place that boasts of growing its own vegetables, food should be quintessentially fresh. The meals here served are neither European (given the high footfall of global travelers) nor have the authenticity of Himachali cuisine. And with hardly any other places to eat in Pragpur, there is no choice but to consume the below-average fare.

However, the mansion is placed right in the centre of all the action. On a lazy day, one could go walking in the village that was certified as a Heritage Village by the state government in 1997. Founded in the late 16th century by the Kuthiala Soods in memory of Princess Prag Dei of the Jaswan royal family, with its winding cobbled lanes, mud-plastered walls and slate-roofed houses, time seems to have halted here.

A narrow lane outside the Judge’s Court gates snakes through the village and leads to an ornamental water tank called Taal that was built before 1868.

Pragpur houses have extremely varied architectural styles—Kangra, Rajput, British, Portuguese and even Italian architecture can be spotted. Many temples fill the region, especially the renowned Bagula Devi Temple.

The village is also apt to station oneself and travel to other places in the Kangra Valley. The eco-tourism and birding site Maharana Pratap Bird Sanctary on Pong Dam is 30 kms from Pragpur. The Egyptian vulture and the White-rumped vulture are a common sight.

The Masroor rock cut temple, built in the 8th century, is located 55 kms from Pragpur. It reminds one of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

But it’s the overarching

Dhauladhar range that is unmissable. On a clear day, one can see the snow-capped peaks glistening in the sun. In fact, the crystal clear air made us want to shun the city life forever and stay back in a small cottage amidst the verdant beauty.

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