Annapurna: A view from the top

The sights are worth the trouble as one traverses through the Nepalese hills and plains benevolently presided over by the Annapurna massif.
Yak Kharka is located at 4,110 metres
Yak Kharka is located at 4,110 metres

The namastes are the best. All along the Annapurna Circuit trek—an unpredictable passage of opposites— you will pass through little hamlets and stops, be greeted by local children, watch baby yaks and mountain goats as you move along. The landscape is starkly breathtaking, sometimes interrupted by dusty roads bustling with jeeps. The climate along the road, which dips and rises on the way, is eccentric—one day it is tropically hot while other times it dips to temperatures below 15 degrees Celsius during the day and below seven degrees  Celsius at night. 

The sights are worth the trouble as one traverses through the Nepalese hills and plains benevolently presided over by the Annapurna massif. There are versatile surprises along the way, such as snow-capped peaks, colourful forests and gigantic rivers—these make the hardship easy. With snow-filled passes, high-altitude deserts, dry river beds, undulating rock formations and masses of rhododendron flowers—its travel candy offered in its best form. 

Thorang La Pass
Thorang La Pass

Mount Annapurna is one of the highest peaks in the Himalayan ranges in Nepal at over 8,000 metres with Thorang Pass La being its apex point at 5,416 metres. Adventure is just a breath away on this route—like passing a huge valley on suspension bridges. At Marpha (2,670 mt), one can see Nyingma monastery where there is a 400-year-old monastery along with a newly build one. In the old building, there is Buddhist text written in gold ink that dates back to at least 600 years. One can see many other monasteries as well, and interactions with monks and devotees will enlighten one with interesting facets of the religion. 

After arriving at Kathmandu, Nepal, travel to Khudi (800 metres),in a vehicle to begin the trek. A trekking permit is required from Nepal Tourism for the journey ahead. It’s important to keep the passport and a few photographs handy. A determined hiker can trek for five to eight hours, ascending anywhere between 300 and 500 metres. The journey needs fitness and patience.

Night halts are at small local hotels, which charge a nominal price provided you have dinner and breakfast there. For food adventurers, try the dalbhat—a local lentil-rice dish, though avatars of western dishes are available since many foreigners take the circuit. The tea houses have common areas where warm chimneys provide warmth to huddle around. Modernity makes its presence felt with warm water and wi-fi at all hotels. 

 Before you start the trek, it is important to boost your cardio stamina by walking up to 10-40 km a day. Apparel required for the trek includes thermals, T-shirts, jeans, fleece and insulated winter jackets. Be prepared for unpredictable rains and windy days with rain coats and umbrellas. These can be bought from Kathmandu or Pokhra. Trek neophytes beware: buy only reputed brands.

A trekker bought a sleeping bag which only had polythene bags as stuffing: a disconcerting discovery at 3,000 metres. Read up on Acute Mountain Sickness (AMC). This is caused by a drop of pressure at high altitudes and the fittest climber can get it. The only solution is to make your way down if there is trouble with breathing, headache and other symptoms. Pranayama helps. Ironically, a regular smoker said taking in air and keeping it in the lungs for long prevented AMC from affecting him.

Altitude medication is easily available at any pharmacy once you climb 1,500 meters and higher. Acclimatisation is crucial—a recommended stop is Manang (3,519 mt). While you are at it, take one of the side treks through spectacular mountain scenery. Now comes the rough part. To reach Thorung Pass La, the peak, from Thorung Phedi (4,600 mt), requires trudging bravely through knee deep snow. The weather keeps changing from extreme cold to snowfall, heavy winds or rain. The wise come prepared. Fill the thermos with tea or soup. Though dawdling at the top can be pretty risky, descend from Thorung La Pass to Muktinath (3,800 mt) the same day, and spiritually rejuvenate at the Hindu temple or Buddhist monastery there. 

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