The Unassuming Grain that Giveth

The resurgence of age-old grains is more than just a trend in the Indian food industry.
The Unassuming Grain that Giveth

The resurgence of age-old grains is more than just a trend in the Indian food industry. It is a natural progression towards using healthy and sustainable local produce. The good news is that chefs across the country are increasingly incorporating them in their daily menus. Amaranth or ramdana is one such versatile grain, which is known for its immense nutritional value. Right from salads to idlis, risottos to desserts—chefs are playing around with the protein-filled kernel.  

Chef Anas Qureshi of Molecule Air Bar, Delhi, has dreamed up a recipe called ‘Amaranth Arancini a la Milanaise’ where he uses the super grain in an Italian dish. “As an antipasti, it is my take on a classical Italian dish. I coat cheese-stuffed arborio rice balls with puffed amaranth to make a crust and serve it with saffron sauce and macerated orange. It combines two complementing textures—soft and crisp. An Amaranth  crust is a great replacement for bread crumbs,” says Qureshi.  

Gaurav Narayan, at Novotel, Guwahati, uses amaranth to create legacy dishes that preserve tradition and also uses the grain to cerate a new avatar. His amaranth kheer is a new take on the ubiquitous Indian dessert. “It is delicious and very popular among the guests. I serve it through the year and especially during festival time such as Navratri when people who are fasting come looking for vrat ka khana,” says Narayan.

The grain is easy to bind with other ingredients and provides a crunchy coating. “The best part is that it does not alter the taste of the dish; in fact, in many cases it enhances the flavour. Hence, we use amaranth puffs as garnish on lamb chops,” says Harangad Singh, corporate chef at Prankster, Delhi.  

Food is being constantly reinvented at restaurants and chefs are on the lookout to present familiar flavours in innovative forms. For instance, Chef Neelabh Sahay, Novotel Kolkata, has packed idlis with healthy nutrients. “I make idlis with oats and amaranth seeds. It is a healthy combination because it is also gluten-free. These idlis are calcium-rich and the best part is that they are very easy to digest,” says Sahay. 

 Unlike other grains, food impressarios are able to conjure recipes with amaranth without complications. “Since it has no peculiar taste, amaranth is easy to use in the main course as well as in desserts. It is also easy to source,” points out Chef Ashish Singh of Café Delhi Heights and Nueva. The amaranth pudding there is a sought-after plate among health-conscious diners. “It is a no-guilt pudding and tastes just like regular rice pudding. But its solid nutrient content and less carbohydrates has makes it very popular,” adds the chef.  

Chef Manish Mehrotra of Indian Accent Restaurants recalls his amaranth days in Bihar. “We have mishti doi cannoli and amaranth laddoo on the menu. Both were an important part of my childhood while growing up in Bihar. I loved it when my mother served amaranth laddoos for breakfast. Scooping mishti doi (sweet yoghurt) till the last spoonful from an earthen pot is a sinful pleasure that cannot be forgotten,” smiles Mehrotra.

Chef Sunil Kumar Gopalan, of Ibis Kolkata is proud of his novel amaranth and apricot salad. He says, “It is a simple salad fortified with super-foods, fruits, seeds and herbs. It is also delicious and a meal in itself. Roasted amaranth seeds are added to beetroots, carrots, Roman lettuce and topped with lime, honey, and freshly pounded black pepper. ” So, the next time you spot amaranth on a restaurant menu, go for it. Not just for its health benefits but also to support local farmers who have been growing it across the country for centuries. 

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