HAMPI/ANEGUNDI: For decades now, the ancient ruins at Hampi have attracted tourists from across the world who flock to the former seat of the Vijayanagara Empire, for a glimpse into the Deccan’s glorious yet troubled past.
Modern-day Hampi thrives with stories from our past. With 1,500 monuments, which have come up across the centuries, the city has a lot to offer any history buff. But a general lack of maintenance and the absence of will by the governments, both in the state and at the Centre, has resulted in a majority of these monuments being left to rot.
The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) takes care of a paltry 55 monuments while the rest are under the care of the State Archaeological Department which focuses on less than 200 structures, leaving approximately 1,245 vulnerable to the vagaries of nature and open to vandals.
Even those under protection cannot boast of airtight security as the recent vandalism incident proved. Five persons, including a popular rap artist, desecrated the Vishnu temple, near the famous Vijaya Vittala temple by pulling down pillars. This incident happened, according to locals, because the security guards posted at Hampi are least bothered about this temple, or many others, that they are tasked with protecting.
Popularly known as the city of ruins, Hampi is derived from the Kannada rendering of ‘Pampa’ (with the famous sound change from ‘p’ to ‘h’, a turning point in Dravidian language evolution). ‘Pampa’ was another name for Tungabhadra river, on whose turbulent banks this long chapter in civilisational history unfolded. The history extends to well before 1336 CE when the Vijayanagara empire was founded. Several historians place Hampi as a thriving city under the Mauryan Empire in the 3rd century BCE.
The historic city, which faced off against several aggressors, has perhaps never had so few guards responsible for its safety. Around 200 guards, employed with the ASI, pair up with 200 more, employees of private security agencies, to mount a defence against vandals. However, tourists regularly complain of getting zero assistance from them.
Hampi also is a major draw for many foreign tourists from France, Germany, Israel and many other countries. However, there is no one on site who can speak their language and tell them about the ruins and their history. Experts lay the blame for this at the doors of the Hampi World Heritage Area Management Authority (HAWAMA), one of the major agencies involved in management and conservation.
Locals have many interesting and yet embarrassing tales to narrate. HAWAMA had put up high definition cameras on the hilltops, but within three months, primates attacked the wires, rendering the cameras useless. In another incident, a heritage tour of Hampi, at night was introduced with the audio guide only in Kannada, making it impossible for those from out of the state to use. But there is hope yet for the city that refuses to die. Several individuals are quietly working behind the scenes for Hampi’s development. Krishnadevaraya, the 19th descendant of the Vijayanagara king and the scion of the dynasty, is one such person. Prince Yaduveer of the Mysore Royal family is another. Both royals were vocal in their protest against the vandalism of the Vishnu temple.
Krishnadevaraya has also proposed a laser-based security system to safeguard monuments across the city. Speaking to The New Indian Express, he said, “I spoke to many friends in the tech sector. Laser technology for the safety of monuments is a new idea and can be implemented.”
“If the same heritage site was in the US or other countries, they would have ensured that the site got its right attention. America may have a short history but we must learn how they take care and popularise native history to visitors,” he added.
The scion also pointed out that Hampi was more than just ruins of an ancient civilisation. “Hampi is now about just monuments and ruins. There is a religious angle to it. Hundreds of tourists visit Virupaksha temple in Hampi and Anjanadri temple in Anegundi. It’s important that authorities ensure sanctity around these places.”
Cry for attention
The ASI takes care of 55 monuments leaving the rest for the state archaeology department. So far less than 200 are being cared for by the state leaving around 1,245 monuments undocumented.
