With the bleak winter sun streaming through Le Cirque’s thick French windows, the intimate private table set elegantly infront of us, welcomed us with an ensemble of delicious Austrian food and exquisite wine poured from vintage bottles into the fine stem glasses. As the table rouse to blarney, service started with aplomb. Back in the kitchen, however, things were diametrically different. In the centre of the culinary storm stood a happy face. It was that of Austrian Michelin star Chef Armin Leitgeb, who seemed drenched in the history of his native food, Austrian, when we entered his scared space. Leitgeb and his team of marked chefs are cooking for everybody curious about Austrian cuisine till November 18.
For somebody who has spent time enthusiastically studying, experiencing and perfecting, it shows on his plate.
A potpourri of several food cultures, Austria’s food has derived its definition largely from the countries that were under the rule of Habsburg Empire including Switzerland, Spain, Holland, Hungary and Italy.
Each extended its influence to Austria’s food heritage. However, what Austria is able to call its own has a greater idiosyncrasy attached to it too.
If enjoyed the traditional way, Austrian food is a long running, but slow moving practise of dining, much like the Indian food traditions. It’s meant to be enjoyed with family and loved ones, with banter spiralling on the table and time losing its pace. Coming to think of it, food is actually all about that. Mindful connections of the plate with the plate when your brain can finally match the pace of your mount.
As we dug into the sharing platters of Apple Strudel Twenty Eighteen, Curd Cheese Degustation and Kaiserschmarrn, we were reminded of how food connects us all in such a satisfying way. Our experiences of it are the same—we eat when we’re happy and we eat when we’re sad, and all the time in between. Whatever the occasion, it’s a sensual experiences that brings wholeness to societies, cultures, and most importantly our hearts.
At Le Cirque, a seven course set menu is being presented. Outside of this, there are la carte options as well. The centrepiece of it all is Leitgeb’s signature Crispy Egg with Chanterelles, baby spinach leafs and White Alba Truffles towering the delicate egg within. The yolk spills out into a little stream of warm, gooey liquid into the saucer plate, covering the vegetables and herbs deliciously.
The Marinated Heirloom Tomatoes with basil, olive oil emulsion and tapenade, string together, simplicity in a way that’s fresh that’s neat and crisp.
The Tyrolean Blattln Mit Kraut was a variation of the Indian samosa, only this rendition comes as little bite-sized hors d oeuvre with cabbage as the main ingredient. Traditionally, these are served as large portions with the entire family sitting around the kitchen with fresh stocks of piping hot pockets arriving on their plate.
Every bite matched with a collection of fine wines brought our lunch to a satiated high. Hopefully this will not be the last we see of Leitgeb’s beautiful dishes. We’re told he’s launching a new restaurant called Le Treize in Tyrol’s skiing resort, Seefeld, in December 2018, where he’ll be taking his culinary stars to the white land of snowscapes to warm the hearts of people, just like he did with us. Guten Appetit!
November 18, The Leela Palace New Delhi, Diplomatic Enclave, Chanakyapuri.