Sun-dried sumptuousness
CHENNAI: How about you bring the first batch of arisi (rice) and javvarisi (tapioca pearls) vadam that’s drying on the terrace while I prepare the dough for chilli vadam,” suggests Gomathi (82) to her sister-in-law Padma (60), as the duo goes about with their summer ritual at their Thirumullaivoyal residence.
After accomplishing their target for the day, the partners in pickle and vadam-making hand over a plateful of freshly fried vadam to me. “That’s vengaya (onion) vadam, katta vadam, and ribbon vadam. Feel free to taste them all,” smiles Padma. As I snack on the crispy goodness, Gomathi gets talking about how it’s been 30 years since she got initiated into making vadam, and has not missed a single year since.
A taste of home
“This was not something passed down to me by my grandmother or mother. Would you believe it if I told you that I learned this art from my neighbour who was visually impaired, yet knew the right proportions of ingredients? What started as a pastime developed into a full-fledged business. I used to stay in Villivakkam for 40 years. I used to take a bus or an autorickshaw and go in person, and hand over the vadams to people, from all parts of Chennai, if the quantity was not more than 10 kg. Since 2016, I have not been able to deliver it by myself, and hence, people come home and get it,” narrates Gomathi, whose vadams sell like hotcakes among friends and family.
The homemaker couriers vadams to people residing in Canada, the USA, New Zealand, Dubai and other foreign countries, and in India, to places such as Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Pollachi and Coimbatore. “Earlier, we used to have our house help to assist us with the preparation. Currently, I’m residing with my sister-in-law Padma. We share the workload. My job is to prepare the batter and make vadams. She takes care of drying it out in the sun and packaging and delivering it.
People opt for our homemade vadams over the commercial ones as we customise it to their liking with less salt and no preservatives. When stored in airtight containers, it lasts for many years,” shares Gomathi, who has passed on the trade secrets to her sister-in-law. Padma has been actively involved in the making for the last two years after her retirement from Puzhal Central Prison as an administrative officer.
Sharing is caring
Every summer, orders pour in from their social circle. The duo meticulously churn out multiple batches of arisi, javvarisi, ribbon, onion, pumpkin, tomato, aval (puffed rice), potato, mor milagai (chilli), and kothavarangai (cluster beans) vadams. While they made 100 kg last year, this year, they’ve crossed 50 kg. “We prepare our batches from the third week of February to the end of September. We should also consider the occasional summer showers. If there’s rain for a day or two, we need to pause the whole process, make sure the terrace is dry enough and then start afresh,” explains Padma, an expert in making pickles like avakkai, maavadu, kurum milagu (green pepper), lemon, tomato, raw mango, narthangai (citron) and nellikai (amla; when it’s in season).
While the output looks fairly simple, it involves a laborious process of soaking, grinding, mixing, drying and frying. And, in the case of pickles, plucking the right fruit, chopping them into appropriate sizes, marinating them with spices, copious amounts of oil, and salt. “In some households, this is a group activity where ladies from the neighbourhood get together and indulge in the preparation. In our house, it’s just the two of us. The job demands all our attention and patience. It’s a great exercise for the hands, shoulders, and brain; improves dexterity and hand-eye coordination. Even today, my hands itch if I don’t prepare vadams. I’m active because of the process,” notes Padma.
Despite the changing times and introduction of varieties of chips into the supermarkets, these flavoured fryums continue to hold a sweet spot in people’s hearts, feels the duo and that’s what keeps them going. “There’s great demand from people living abroad. Our relatives load their suitcases with vadams for friends there. We also courier in bulk quantities to our local friends. Vadams and pickles are versatile, better and healthier. They simplify your meal even when there’s nothing at home.
All you need is to whip up puliogare or lemon rice and relish it with vadams. Or settle for the iconic combination of curd rice and pickle. While working, I used to stack my table with jars of pickles. Colleagues would be grateful to stop by, take a good serving and leave. That said, the youngsters are not keen on carrying forward this legacy and that’s disheartening. Even my kids don’t eat vadams or take interest in learning about traditions. I will do this as long as I can,” says Padma as she fills a jaadi with magali kizhangu pickle. “Come home and you’ll find all kinds of pickles and vadams round the year. It’s an emotion,” she sums up.
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