CHENNAI: Soft, yellow lighting seeps through fish baskets affixed to the ceiling, illuminating the sparsely furnished area — three tables and low-levelled Indian-styled family seating — and a vivid mural that brings alive one corner of the Meen Satti - Experience Store. The storefront paves the way to a contemporary office that is a far cry from the bedroom where the brand began its operations nearly a year ago. While other businesses battled the shaky market in the pandemic, college friends-turned-business partners Aravind Suresh and Richie Richard swam against the tide to establish a unique cloud kitchen that offers one signature product — an authentic meen kuzhambu. “We realised that there is an underserved market; no brand catering to the fish-loving community. The curries currently available in the market are tomato-based (North Indian style) and our foundation is a tamarind base, like curries you would find down south. This is my family recipe of 25 years and any time someone came to our house, they would ask my mother to make this kuzhambu,” shares Aravind.
Behind the scenes
The Experience Store that has ballooned the team from four to eight people, is not a restaurant but a unique concept. “As per our global brand vision, an experience store felt like the natural next step. We are still a cloud kitchen. Through customer feedback, we understood that there is a natural sense to sit down and eat the product. This is not grab-and-go fast food. So, we decided to create this hybrid experience where people can try it out and then order it from the comfort of their home, knowing they will be getting the best,” Aravind says.
To maintain the authenticity and ensure the best quality, the duo sources fresh sea bass — suitable for both kuzhambu and fry — from local markets and other ingredients from Aravind’s family’s farm. No compromises are made when it comes to customers, not even during breeding season. “The time in which we have launched the store is a difficult one for any fish company. But we have good relations with our vendors in Thoothukudi, Rameshwaram, Chennai, Andhra Pradesh and more. Breeding time is different in every state (there is a 25-day gap). The prices are high, but that is on us. The customer will still get the same product,” assures Richie. It was time to put these promises to the test, or rather, taste.
On the plate
A cake box-sized cardboard container opened up to a snuggly packed satti (clay pot) of the fish head curry with the head, tail and two pieces, covered with aluminum foil, the design of the cardboard holder was such that one could slip the satti right off to reveal the other ingredients — 500 ml rasam, 1.5 kg rice, six slices of fish fry, and four pieces of petha paan. The eco-friendly packaging is much researched and prided by the duo. This is The Family Box that serves four people; the entire 1 kg fish is used for this. The only variation to this product is The Idly Box which offers idli and nannari sarbath with the kuzhambu.
Lids were opened, the foil removed and the room was soaked with a familiar aroma of decadent spices. It was time to get our hands dirty (literally). The star of the menu, the meenu kuzhambu did not disappoint. Tangy and rich with a spicy kick that lingers on your tastebuds, the tamarind base made our mouth water between bites. Chunks of green mango that had absorbed the curry added a light sweet and sour note to the powerful gravy. There is little to shuffle around in terms of curry leaves and bones but it’s an insignificant distraction in comparison. But the main challenge — for a novice like me — is deciphering how to eat the head and tail. There is skill to it but brute force works just as well, as I found. Those squeamish about the fish eye may choose to skip it but the crunchy, almost gelatinous texture is a treat to adventurous palates.
The second helping of rice — it’s difficult to stop at one — was paired with homely rasam. The thinner, tomato-based gravy was a welcome break from the heavier kuzhambu. That’s not to say we didn’t find ourselves pouring in more of the latter for a third serving. Both sour and spicy gravies were complemented well by the toned-down flavours of the shallow fried fish. The subtle touches of pepper and turmeric can be enjoyed added into the curry or just by itself. After the tongue running high on flavour overdose, the petha paan (a cross between paan and mukhwas, we felt) was a refreshing end. The product is an all-encompassing meal, the duo informs. “Even though it’s a single product, we position it as the perfect fish head curry meal. You don’t need to get anything else. When you’re confident about what you do, it’s good to remain true to what you stand for. We’re good at what we do and we’re like to stay that way for as long as we can,” Aravind concludes. Order at meensatti.com or visit he Experience Store at 7A, Jawaharlal Nehru Road, Ambal Nagar, Ekkattuthangal.
The Family Box is priced
at Rs 1,199, and The Idly Box at Rs 599.