CHENNAI: As far as authentic international cuisines in Chennai go, Mexe has found a delicious in-between to truthful Mexican roots and adding contemporary touches with their new menu, launched early this month. We found this the gluttonous way, surrounded by nachos, tacos and margaritas under the soft lights of the cosy cafe in Alwarpet. The new menu is an addition of several dishes — including new flavours of tacos, mains, and appetisers — to the original roster. “The chef and my partner have really good knowledge in terms of Mexican food. So, we keep experimenting, doing research and seeing what kind of food there is in Mexico. We also travel quite a bit and see if we can incorporate what we see in other parts of the world, here,” shares Anush Rajasekaran, co-founder.
Taco-bout variety
Of the new items, the Chorizo Jackfruit Sausage Tacos was a unique find. Laden with spicy jackfruit sausage, salsa rojo, cotija cheese and cilantro, this vegetarian option was a win for even us meat lovers who found the tender sausage juicy and succulent with the right amount of spice and a hint of sourness. “You won’t find any 100 per cent vegetarian items in Mexico because everything is cooked in pork fat. Here, however, we have a different clientele with different preferences. So, people who come here to have non-vegetarian food will see the vegetarian options and bring their vegetarian friends with them to try it,” shares chef KR Ganesh Kumar.
The Carnitas that followed were another hit with stringy, tender pulled pork pico de gallo but it was the Pollo Con Chilli Verde that lingered on our tongues the rest of the day. The combination of creamy sauce and spicy chicken offered a light bite but any hope for gracious eating had long gone out the window.
Those who wish to step away from the mainstream could opt for the Pescado Tikin Xic — Yucatan Style Baked Fish that is a banana leaf wrapped baked fish with lime rice, beans and sour onions. The unique taste — one that might need getting used to for some — is light and flavourful with a kick of spice and sourness. Those who wish to lean into it, however, are safe to try the Loaded Nachos and Cheesy Nachos that, the chef informs, have been introduced as the locals’ preference.
Just authentic enough
Despite the inclusion of the beloved nachos, Mexe wishes to steer away from tex-mex options, says Anush. Instead, the authentic-yet-contemporary style of the restaurant opens the Chennai palate to the more unknown side of Mexican food. “Everyone comes with the preconceived notion that Mexican food is supposed to be spicy, whereas that’s not the case. Hot sauce is mostly served on the side. So when people ask us about the spice, we have to talk to them (about the cuisine). Besides, with hot dishes, you can’t taste the flavour beyond the point. We are trying so that every dish we make should be unique and not like the other,” he adds.
That being said, there are several peppers used in the recipes, many authentic to the origin. Like India has bhut jholokia and reshampatti, Mexico too has its own chillies, explains Ganesh. “We use both dry and fresh forms of Mexican peppers like jalapeño, habanero, chipotle, arbol, and more, sourced from a local farm operating in a few parts of India. The fresh ones are named differently when dried (chipotle refers to dried jalapeño) and the latter have a completely different flavour profile,” he says.
It is the availability of the fresh chillies that allows the inclusion of the Jalapeño Fries on the new menu. “I cannot fry tin chillies and call them fried jalapeños,” Ganesh adds. These botonas (snacks) are a crisp fried appetiser served with a cheesy pico dip and grease your fingers lightly after a satisfying crunch and a subtle kick that keeps you coming back for more. For a more finger-licking-good experience, we recommend the Spicy Corn Ribs (saucy, well-seasoned and spicy-sweet with a crunchy exterior and soft interior) or the Baby Back Ribs (ooey-gooey, sweet glazed with a smattering of petite pineapple pieces).
Behind the bar
Filled to the brim with the botanas, tacos and fish, we thanked the beverages that helped us wash down the kaleidoscope of flavours on our palates — even at the risk of ballooning our bellies. The Pink Lemonade was the safe option, perhaps a bit too safe for the adventurous eater. The Avocado and Lime Margarita brought a bit more excitement — creamy, icy, and especially refreshing as a palate cleanser.
But if there was one drink that overshined every other debut, it was the Agua de Piño con Nopal. The pineapple and cactus agua fresca (flavoured water) pleasantly shocked the taste buds with an abundantly sweet and sour melody, engaging the entire palate with a complex flavour and hint of bitter aftertaste (no complaints). “Drinks are typically alcoholic, made with tequila and mezcal, but we do not have the leverage to serve alcohol. So we have to go extensively mocktail-based but ensure they still don’t lose the authentic flavours,” Ganesh says. Alcoholic or not, we definitely were left in some sort of stupor at the end of the meal.Visit Mexe at 2, 13, West St, Cooperative Colony, Sri Ram Nagar, Alwarpet.