CHENNAI: Trends are design directions. They lead the way to creating a distinguishing factor for brands. However, for the 100-plus-year-old Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers (VBJ), history, heritage, and ethics are at the core of the brand’s long-standing legacy.
It is the sedate and promising pace of constant innovation through modern manufacturing practices which reflects in their loyal customer base. Amarendran Vummidi, managing director, talks about the brand’s journey, the latest collection and the USP of their designs.
Excerpts follow.
A brand that has a history of more than a century, what does it take to keep up the legacy and the responsibility that comes with it?
There are a lot of guidelines and values set by the founders, and following them is a crucial part to ensure the brand continues for another 100 years. It does come with a lot of responsibility in terms of self-restriction. Also, as times changed, we needed to adopt newer technologies of manufacturing, and move online. We do whatever it takes (ethically) to keep us right on top as a brand to make sure we are there.
How have the brand’s values and ideologies evolved to make it more in sync with Gen Z?
The values are the same but the people who we are catering to keep changing. But for the current generation too, core values are very important and non-negotiable; conserving nature is a priority. Two hundred years back, India was at the top of this, conservation was key, everyone was empathetic, and there was no discrimination.
This is what Gen Z is looking for. We are going back to where it started. We are very much in sync with Gen Z, as our family’s Gen Z has also come into the business. My brother’s daughter brings her set of values that she appreciates and we are happy that this generation is very serious about what they talk, about and is committed to their values.
Tell us about your new collection.
Our latest Peacock Collection is derived from India’s national bird. It is something very Indian. Everything that VBJ does has to be Indian and we ensure that we offer local flavour. We take this design and make it as modern as possible using all the latest manufacturing techniques. We have used a French enamelling technique, which is a proven, very fine technique.
We have also used a micro setting for all our diamonds. Every stone is kept under a microscope; so these are all international standards that we follow. We adopted this six years back. The new collection has a mix of traditional design and modern manufacturing.
With technology becoming cutting-edge in jewellery designs, how has it impacted handmade
craftsmanship?
Most of the handmade designs are now getting switched to CAD (Computer Aided Design) and CAM (Computer Aided Machine). There is a shift from labour-intensive work to computer- generated CAD and CAM. So, even if we have a simple diamond necklace with some colour stones, we make sure we measure every single stone; the frame where the diamond sits is also made to measure. So all this is possible today with the help of technology.
So, then what is the future for craftsmen?
The craftsmen have to upgrade themselves. In our factory, we have artisans who were doing handmade designs, but now we have started training them in CAD. So it’s very important for the person who is making the jewellery to do the CAD. Because someone who is doing the CAD (alone) will not know where to give a link, where to do the curve, where the prongs should be set, and whether it can be technically correct — all this will be known only to the person involved in manufacturing.
Do you have a lineage of craftsmen who have been with the brand for generations?
Not craftsmen, but we have salespersons who are second generation. Most of the next generation from the craftsmen families are not coming in. We are finding it difficult to get the younger generation to do this kind of highly skilled work. The amount of skills you need to learn takes at least two to three years, only after which you start getting a reasonably good salary.
What are your exclusive collections?
Kasu collection which is a coin collection. We have Annapakshi, and then we have the solitaire collections. We also have a lot of bridal jewellery, everyday wear, and casual wear — all of them are doing well right now.
They say opportunities come in the form of adversities, and the pandemic was one such.
How did the brand reinvent itself during this time?
We never sent anyone back home. It was our responsibility to take care of them. We did a lot of manufacturing during that period. Of course, we were closed for two months, after which even though markets were slow, we continued manufacturing without stopping for one day also. This gave us time to think of what designs can be brought into vogue, and new colours, and we looked at the finer details of production. Even our Peacock Collection was thought of during Covid.
Between traditional and contemporary, how do you strike the balance between unbiased sales of
both?
The market is growing in contemporary jewellery. The sale of traditional jewellery has not come down but it is not increasing either. Earlier, traditional South Indian weddings had only two functions, now we have Sangeet, Mehendi and lots of other ceremonies. So for this, western-wear jewellery also suits well. It is only for muhurtham that people wear traditional jewellery. For other functions, people are wearing fancier jewellery. Our neo-classical collections have a lot of coloured stones.
What is the brand’s philosophy?
Keep it simple and honest with the client.
What is your most popular piece of jewellery for men?
Bracelets, but when it comes to wedding jewellery it is colour stone beads, malas, and
pearls.
What sets you apart from other brands?
Our designs. Secondly, we are probably one of the few jewellers in India who manufacture our own
jewellery. For us, it’s very emotional; jewellery is part of our livelihood and the air we breathe
is also jewellery. We need to manufacture everything. What you see in VBJ, you don’t see anywhere else.
What is your statement piece at VBJ?
We made a wonderful diamond, mother-of-pearl clutch. We found the mother of pearl on the beaches of Mahabalipuram, we picked them up, polished them, and they revealed a wonderful colour. So, we decided to make a clutch collection using the mother of pearl.