CHENNAI: Leaning gently against the tanpura, her eyes closed, we see a series of photographs of a legend gracefully immersed in her melody. Zooming in, our eyes instantly shift to the jasmine flowers, carefully arranged on a tight bun, only to be pulled back into the photo by the glimmering nose pins. The pallu of the silk sari draped over her shoulders adds an air of devotion. Collaborating with costume stylist Anu Parthasarathy, actor Vidya Balan channels the spirit of Carnatic music doyen MS Subbulakshmi in a photo series.
Titled A Recreation of Iconic Styles, the project showcases four saris worn by the singer between the 1960s and 1980s, recreated by Anu, with guidance from the Bharat Ratna recipient’s granddaughter-in-law, Sikkil Mala Chandrashekhar. Vidya, deeply inspired by MS amma since childhood, expressed her admiration through a reel on Instagram: “Growing up, my mom would play Suprabhatam sung by her, first thing in the morning. My everyday life still begins with her voice. For me, MS Subbulakshmi is a spiritual experience. Therefore, this has been a labour of love, and I feel honoured to be able to pay tribute to her in this way.”
Reviving a style icon
The photographs were taken by Rohn Pingalay and were released on the 108th birth anniversary of MS Subbulakshmi on September 16, weaving her spiritual and artistic worlds together. The project, which has been seven years in the making, began with a casual conversation between Anu and Vidya during a Silk Expo event. In the reel, Vidya further shares, “It was my ardent desire to play MS amma on screen, and when it didn’t happen, I was heartbroken...Anu ma’am got the saris woven, the nose pins made, and even sat with MS amma’s family to understand the exact way she draped her sari.”
The team, including Vidya’s hair and makeup artists, approached the project with great care, even conducting a trial shoot. Anu shares, “MS amma is not only a legendary singer but also a style icon. Even her way of draping was different. We might think it is a nine-yard sari but it is just six-yard. The way the front pleats are draped, the way her blouses are woven, everything is artistic.”
Anu’s attention to detail went beyond the saris. From minimalistic jewellery to the specific shades of kungumam and glass bangles MS Subbulakshmi wore, every element had to be authentic. Anu’s approach to the project went far beyond conventional biographical retellings. She sought to capture the nuances of MS amma’s life. “It wasn’t just a photoshoot. It felt like a biopic. I wanted to show a side of her that people hadn’t seen before. The simple details were taken into consideration, like the vibuthi she wore was from Pandurang temple in Pandharpur.”
The journey, however, was not without its challenges. One of the key hurdles Anu faced was sourcing and replicating MSS’s iconic saris. “Many of her photographs are in black and white, so I relied on detailed research and guidance from Mala, to ensure the colours and motifs were authentic,” says Anu. She worked with weavers to recreate the exact shades. The weaving process was a trial and error, with Anu making multiple attempts to achieve the right hues and designs. “Every sari was a challenge. Sometimes the weaver didn’t get the shade right on the first try, and I had to ensure the final version met the approval of the family.” The famous ‘MS Blue’ was a tricky colour to perfect, thus Anu sourced it from Nalli Silks.
A melody of memories
Renowned flautist Mala’s memories of her grandmother-in-law offer an intimate glimpse into how the iconic Carnatic vocalist carried herself. Reflecting on her journey from casual performances to taking music seriously under the influence of the legendary singer, Mala says, “Every afternoon, I used to grasp so many things from their practice sessions.” She fondly mentions that MS amma was always committed and precise, whether it was a recording, a concert, or even a simple practice session. Her relationship with MS amma extended beyond music to lifestyle and personal habits. She says, “The way she used to dress up, the way she used to drape her saris, the way she used to keep her flowers, the way she created a ‘pear shape’ hair bun rather than the traditional round one…every little thing contributes to one’s personality.”
She also observed MS amma’s detailed personal care routines, such as oiling her hair and keeping her nails and jewellery immaculate. When it came to style, MS amma had a distinct approach, especially in her choice of saris and how she wore them. Mala notes, “She used to wear three saris — one for concerts, one for recordings, and one for home.”
MSS’s sari collection was unique, with weaves and zari of exceptional quality. She was particular about her attire, often choosing handloom saris for home and traditional silk saris for concerts. “Muthu Chettiyar used to weave saris for MS amma. The combinations were very simple; most of them were maroon, blue, green, mustard — bright colours for concerts,” Mala says. She would oil her hair in the morning, ensuring it was set by the evening; even the flowers she wore in her hair were carefully selected. She was particular about her health, too, always drinking a medicinal concoction of pepper and honey before going on stage. As Mala aptly says, “There is a science behind whatever she does.”
As the photo series gains appreciation, Anu desires to continue creating projects to keep stories of cultural legends like MS amma alive, not as distant memories but as an inspiration for us all.
When the final frame of this tribute fades, we hear the eternal voice of MS Subbulakshmi gently echoing in our hearts: “kurai ondrum illai marai moorthi kanna kurai ondrum illai kanna kurai ondrum illai govinda.”