Do you love items on the menu that prefix with ‘crispy honey’, ‘burnt garlic’ or ‘honey chilli’? Do you salivate over anything noodle-y, like the American Chopsuey with a sunny side up for a crown? If you love this desi Chinese, American hodgepodge, then Larry’s China at Ambassador hotel must appear delish. Especially, as the new menu launched on Chinese New Year to celebrate 20 years in foodbiz, fulfills these cravings.
Ambassador occupies a spot in colonial history, as the original edifice first housed British soldiers during WWII. Soon after, it was given an art-deco transformation by Khushwant Singh’s father Sir Sojan Singh. In 1990, it came under the Taj banner, and in 2019, it was promoted an IHCL SeleQtions status (properties rich in history or design) in 2019.
In 2000, the hotel opened Larry’s China after finding its muse in Luther Carrington Goodrich, nicknamed Larry, an American born in 1890s China. Larry, says Sanjeev Chopra Executive Chef at Ambassador, moved to America in the 90’s with Chinese emigrants who fled the Communist rule. “When Larry grew old, he collected his vast memories of China, which were his photographs about the land and its unsung heros in the 1930s and 40s, and put it in a book. The legendary Chef GD Joshi was brought from House of Ming to start Larry’s,” says Chopra. As Taj Mansingh’s House of Ming already had a hit Indo-Chinese menu, Chef Joshi invented a ‘American Indo Chinese’. That explains the American Chopsuey here. Not on the new menu, it can be rustled up on request.
But two decades later, Larry’s China is yet to shine on the culinary map. First, it is tucked at the very end of a long-winding corridor in the hotel (that encompasses a walkthrough art gallery, in-house restaurants and a few rooms). Then it is overshadowed by the very Instagrammable Yellow Brick Road (YBR), Ambassador’s 24/7 coffee shop, who’s Fried Fish with Tartare Sauce the late Sheila Dikshit relished. Even within IHCL, the celebrated Delhi Oriental trio of House of Ming, Thai Pavilion and Spicy Duck, leaves no room for competition.
But post a facelift (with major ongoing renovations at Ambassador), Larry’s is looking fancy with the Oriental lanterns, upturned rooftops, lettering, vintage furniture, and Lucius Fernandes, who’s with Larry’s since it opened doors, continues to charm with his renditions of 80s English hits.
The new menu (an elaborate scroll) is packed with ol’ favourites “because we don’t tweak our recipes much”, says Chef Chopra. We like the Sliced Sole Fish starter, pan-fried in red masala with a tender inside, a bit too spicy, but well-done. Sliced Pentagon Chicken, stripes of chicken breast flavoured with five-spices and soy is munch-worthy. Try the Chicken Asparagus – fat ribbons of chicken meat in brown gravy – over the Veg Fried Rice as your mains.
But your Big ‘Oh!’ moment arrives when Larry’s Tiger Seasame Prawns do. No man can live like an island, but this prawn can because it is an island! About 6-7 inches big and circular. We’re told, Chef Joshi invented this secret technique to stretch an average tiger prawn, perhaps in frustration after many customers found about its size. Crunchy, too much masala, and raw-salad-ish topping didn’t hit the mark, but it’s cost-effective because halfway through the island you will feel full.
Sanjeev Chopra, Executive Chef
Overall, Larry’s is a case of old wine in a new bottle.
At: Larry’s Kitchen, Ambassador, Sujan Singh Park