HYDERABAD: At a time when designers are attempting to reinvent the bridal colour palette, Sanya Dhir, the creative director of Diva’ni (cinema-inspired ethnic wear label by Yash Raj Films), takes the focus back to classic vermilion with her latest collection, Sindoori. “No matter how globally we grow in our sensibilities, the essence of Indian heritage will always stay strong. We chose to go with vermilion because it stands for purity, love, strength, and happiness,” explains Dhir.
However, she is quick to point out that sticking to a conventional hue does not mean that the designs aren’t experimental. “We are not going the clichéd route but have employed tones of vermilion with contemporary silhouettes and cuts, and incorporated bejeweled elements into the garments,” she shares. Think elaborate floor-length jackets, cropped cholis, circular ghera lehengas and even a pantsuit with a salmon pink fitted blouse.
Luxurious fabrics like brocade, raw silk, dupion silk and silk georgette form the canvas for gota flowers, velvet applique work, and other styles of embellishments, such as Persian art, kundan, polki, and intricate zardozi work. A deep red velvet blouse with a daring neckline, and contrasting forest green beads caught our eye, as did a heavily kundan-embellished crimson choli, paired with a swirling coral skirt in flowy georgette.
“Our emphasis is on the age old craftsmanship of old zardozi, dabka, hand appliques, surfacing work and fabric. So in a way we’re also reviving age old craft traditions,” Dhir concludes.