HYDERABAD: What comes to your mind when someone says ‘Kolkata cuisine’? You think of momos and Kathi rolls. But that’s a tiny drop in the ocean of cuisine that the city offers. Kolkata specifically has a flair for adapting any culinary influence as its own, and to represent just that, renowned chef Vikramjit Roy has brought to Hyderabad The Tangra Project. Known for its ‘Kolkata-Chinese’ cuisine, the co-founder is confident of the city welcoming the project with arms wide open.
For the uninitiated, Tangra is a region in east Kolkata that traditionally housed tanneries owned by people of the Hakka Chinese origin. They’re known for the famous Indian-Chinese cuisine everybody loves.Speaking about what the cuisine represents and its origin, Vikramjit says, “Tangra, in every possible way, emancipates the inclusivity that any place upholds. These were Hakka migrants, who had come in after the civil war, into Calcutta and the city embraced them. We wanted to celebrate this inclusivity and large-heartedness of the city and bring it to Hyderabad.”
On why he chose Hyderabad, he says, “The City of Pearls resonates the same inclusivity and welcoming of cultures and cuisines from across the country and the world. I’ve never seen the city being frugal with anything. That said, we’ve also seen a lack of authentic Kolkata food here. Tell me where you’d get good Irish tea or Paturi in Hyderabad? I’m not talking about the Bengali food that restaurants sell to you as authentic, but food that comes from the love for its culture and history.”
Now, for a Bengali, the Tangra cuisine served here would not seem like its an exact replica of what they have back in Kolkata, and Vikramjit explains why: “While I love to promote and take this cuisine to places, I also love to cook for the people the kind of food they love to eat. Food is personal, always. So, as I curated this menu, I kept in mind the taste of Hyderabadis. We did some good ground research in the city for a week before putting things together. We’ve also skipped putting some dishes and added some ingredients.”
However, he says, one will never find any of the tastes or influences, of either Kolkata or Hyderabad, overpower the other. That’s the trick of doing it right, he believes.In a unique food pop-up, in association with The Tangra Project, Mercure Hyderabad KCP is organising food offerings till December 19, where all can enjoy this lip-smacking modern and old cuisine. Soumitra Pahari, general manager, Mercure Hyderabad KCP said, “Chef Vikramjit has been the torchbearer of the cuisine which showcases the food timeline of the old Calcutta and new Kolkata. We look forward to welcoming food enthusiasts to experience the handcrafted menu of various dishes.”
What: The Tangra Project (pop-up event)
When: Till December 19
Where: Mercure Hyderabad KCP, Punjagutta