KOCHI: Fashion line ‘ERA’ created by gay duo Jijo Kuriakose and Ajmal Aju is inclusive, diverse and non-conforming. Its maiden collection reflects the fearless self-expression evident in the dressing choices of the LGBTQ community
For decades, there have been debates on the purported democratic nature of fast fashion. The globalised economy capitalised on factory outlets, claiming that access to cheaper clothing, was undoubtedly democratic. Despite these claims, fashion for the longest time has catered only to a minor category of people across the world. Tall, skinny, white women and men adorned glossy magazines. However, times have slowly changed. People of all colours and sizes are welcomed, if not warmly, into the industry. Despite this, there still exists an evident divide.
So, when Jijo Kuriakose, an artist approached trans person Amna Plinku for his fashion line created along with designer Ajmal Aju, Jijo highlighted that they didn’t need professional models. “He told me he wanted plus size models and those from the LGBTQ community. The most fundamental thing to be noticed about ‘ERA’, his fashion line, is its inclusiveness. Though I’ve been a regular participant in trans pageants and fashion shows, I’ve faced rejection for not being the stereotypical model. Simultaneously, the outfits available are almost indistinguishable. As a trans person, I’m not able to find the vibrant colours I love wearing,” says Amna, one of the models for ERA.
ERA- Garments for All, rose out of the possibility of entrepreneurship, according to the gay duo. “Ajmal and I live nearby with a great bond over food and fashion. When the pandemic affected our incomes, we decided to capitalise on either of the things we loved most. With our substantial experience, we realised that venturing into fashion is what could work best.
Instead of randomly launching miscellaneous clothing, we decided to design outfits for 12 different people as per their personal styles and desires. We approached a few and tried including as many people as we could, for diversity and inclusiveness, what we have always stood for. However, Covid restrictions did play spoilsport in getting more people on board,” says Jijo.
ERA’s first collection that was launched two weeks ago is undoubtedly inclusive, diverse and non-conforming. The outfits range from aesthetics of dark and pastel hues to whimsical motifs, floral patterns, the occasional sheer top and beige tones. Queer fashion has been the forebearer of individualised styles, personal artistic reflection and fearlessly breaking stereotypes. While Jijo stressed that ERA wasn’t a queer label, the fact that the makers hail from the LGBTQ community, definitely speaks volumes about its design ethos that digresses from the norm.
ERA also hopes to focus on menswear, and shift gaze the other way. Equipping themselves to diversify men’s clothing beyond the socially ciphered machismo codes, is the plan for 2021, according to Jijo. The queer dressmakers agreed that fashion was indeed welcoming towards the LGBTQ community in the state. “I wouldn’t say that the fashion industry in our state lacks inclusion, but I believe as gay dressmakers we can bring more diverse representations,” adds Ajmal.
Models for ERA included Adarsh Mohanan, Maya Krishnan, Ferha Azeez, Amna Plinku, Anand Ampeethara, Arya M, Indhuja Prakash, Qanishqah Paul, Sidharth and Younas Mariyam. Ashok Edapally was the makeup artist while Jinish Mathew took charge as the portfolio photo specialist.
Follow the label on Instagram @eraforall