KOCHI: On Calvathy Road, just a few metres away from the Boat Jetty in Fort Kochi is the quaint little French bistro, Cafe Noir. This atmospheric eatery is set up on the ground floor of the heritage hotel Azora by Ayatana. The checkered floors of the cafe are what caught my attention as soon as I enter. With its heavy doors and wooden chairs, white walls with arches in deep blue and the corner where you can see the elaborate espresso machine and pastries, the space has an old-world air about it.
The restaurant is slightly crowded in the evenings – people, mostly youngsters, are here for the pastries and smoothies. I start my late lunch affair with an appetiser. Chef in -charge Neshamani Kamaraj recommends bruschetta. Three little toasted Italian bread slices arrive topped with tomato, basil and feta cheese, creamy mushroom, and balsamic glazed roasted pepper and almond, respectively, with a side of salad.
It was a perfect start to the lunch, especially the creamy mushroom on top of olive oil-glazed toasted bread, which tastes heavenly. Bread and butter prawns follow. Delicious. The main course, Coq-au-vin, comes with a warning. Coq-au-vin means chicken braised with wine – ideally, soaked in burgundy wine for 24 hours. However, Cafe Noir uses only non-alcoholic wine.
“So, don’t expect the authentic taste,” cautions the chef. The chicken prepared in brown sauce is served with pilaf rice. The next one is the ratatouille. The French provençal dish is a rustic vegetable stew, a dish that gained fame after the movie Ratatouille.
“The famous dish in the movie is actually not ratatouille,” says the chef. “It is but a tian.” The original ratatouille is served in a bowl and looks like a creamy brown stew. Zucchini, eggplants, peppers and onion are cooked in tomato sauce with fresh herbs like rosemary, basil, thyme and oregano. With pilaf rice, it is a truly French experience.
The piece de résistance, however, is the dessert hazelnut and chocolate crepe. The beautiful plating, the blackberries, powdered sugar, strawberry syrup… the whole package looks and tastes sublime. The cherry on the top is a pink macaron served on the side. Cafe Noir, though a French bistro, serves Italian cuisine as well. With pastries, waffles, French shakes, all-day breakfast and seafood dishes, the space can charm you.