KOCHI: There was a time when beards were associated with bards, intellectuals, revolutionaries, and the heartbroken. Today, however, it’s a rarity to spot a clean-shaven man. Beards have become the new normal. And we have all sorts of cult styles -- from Karl Marx to NaMo.
“Men of all ages want to sport a beard these days,” says Ajith Soman, who owns a franchise of Toni & Guy in Kaloor, Kochi. “And the trend is here to stay. Almost 80 per cent of our male customers visit the salon for beard styling, most of them once a week.” Ajith, too, has a beard. “I grew it out in 2016. I believed it gave me a distinct look, and I never felt like shaving it off,” he says.
Many youngsters say even the thought of shaving their hard-grown facial hair is hard to digest. “I feel weird thinking of shaving. Maintaining a beard is a painstaking affair,” says High Court lawyer Reghu P S, who takes a lot of pride in his beard.
Ajith notes that the beard trend was a godsend for bald people. “In general, a beard adds to one’s machismo and boosts confidence,” he says. “So, for men brooding over balding, the beard option was a perfect style statement.” Ajith adds that style comes at a cost. “But people don’t mind spending on grooming,” he says. “I have clients who spend a bomb on their beards.”
Suman Suresh, who runs the Rave Salon and Spa in Thiruvananthapuram, agrees. She believes beards are now being viewed as a symbol of polished, well-groomed men. “Look at Amithabh Bachchan. He always appears aristocratic with a well-groomed beard. Not just him, many celebs have well-styled beards,” she says.
Beards, however, were not this popular some years ago, she says. “There were famous shaving products ads that conveyed women hated facial hair,” she laughs. In Kerala, unlike other parts of the country, it’s men who are more style-conscious, opines Suman. “Be it designer watches, branded outfits, shoes or now beards, it’s men all the way,” she quips.
“On a serious note, I believe a clean and well maintained beard makes men look impressive. Otherwise, it’s a big turn-off.” Anas Abdulla, whose beard runs down to his chest, seconds Suman’s opinion. “My uncle used to have a long beard, and I grew up watching him. When I was 20 years old, in 2014, I also grew out my facial hair. It gave me a unique individuality, as beards were not this popular in Kerala back then. I think in a crowd of clean-shaven men, I attracted a lot of admiring stares,” he quips.
However, Anas adds, our society viewed bearded men with a pinch of suspicion. “People used to think only criminals or addicts grew beards. Worse, they were often linked to heartbreaks. That’s why I started a social media group. It was a way to connect with other bearded men, and share our woes as well as trends and tips,” he says.
In 2017, Anas launched Kerala Beard Society, a registered organisation. “I wanted to popularise, normalise beards. We did a lot of charity such as organising blood donation drives and building a library for a government school in Malappuram,” he says. “We had strict rules. People with criminal backgrounds, drug issues, etc, were not allowed entry. Last year, we conducted a fashion show of men with beards at the Central Square Mall in Kochi to mark ‘No Shave November’.”
The clan, he adds, grew with films such as Premam and Charlie, Anas says. Suman, too, points to Malayalam film stars. “How many stars sans a beard can you name?” she asks.
The styles
Social media plays a huge role in the popularity of beards, says Ajith. “Customers come here with photos of foreign models. It is not just Malayali actors or Bollywood stars who determine trends, there is huge foreign influence,” he adds. “At my salon, some come for salt-and-pepper style, but most prefer a long or mid-length beard. Football stars such as Beckham and Neymar also have a huge influence here. Brad Pitt’s French fork was another hit. Then, there are trend ripples from Arab countries.”
Among Indian stars, Yash of KGF fame triggered a wave, says Ajith. “A couple of days ago, Hrithik Roshan’s beard was in the news, as Katrina Kaif commented on it,” he laughs.
Grooming, booming
Despite being the smallest market in south India, male grooming brand Beardo earns over Rs 6 lakh per month from Kerala. “Beard growth oil, vitamin C serum, etc, have a huge clientele in the state, especially in Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram and Kottayam,” says Beardo’s Kerala sales manager Rajesh K Nair. “Before the pandemic, our average monthly sales amounted to about Rs 10 lakh. Now, sales are surging again, as the pandemic has subsided. There are new entrants such as Bombay Shaving Company, too.”
Flaunt with care
Do not forget about the vital part, says Anas. “Grooming and cleaning are very important,” he adds. “Women like it that way!” Suman, too, emphasises on beard hygiene. “Just like hair, you have to shampoo the beard, else it turns grimy. Being neat is as important as being stylish. There are conditioners also available, so that the beard doesn’t get frizzy,” she says. Ajith adds that beard wax, gels and oils are also essential to maintain the a classy beard. “People are becoming aware of the fact that, like hair, the beard also needs care,” he says. “Long beards are in vogue. So, the market for beard products is doing pretty well. Beard growth oils for thick and shiny facial hair, serums, etc, have a lot of takers.”