The Power in Your Pocket 

Goulian Finch takes the Western pocket square and gives it an Eastern twist with Banarasi weaves.
Goulian Finch co-founders Bejoy Suri and Gunjan. (Photo| Special Arrangement) 
Goulian Finch co-founders Bejoy Suri and Gunjan. (Photo| Special Arrangement) 

The vibrance of the colours is simply mesmerising. From riveting peacock blue to cheerful haldi yellows to soothing mehendi greens—the Goulian Finch pocket square palette celebrates traditional Indian colours with contemporary chutzpah.

Add to this molten silk, the movement of Indian motifs and the magic of flaunting a headliner. Move aside Hermes and ilk, rooted in the looms of Varanasi, pocket square major Goulian Finch is spinning out virtual heirlooms, creating ripples in a domain that has been dominated by the West. 

A purely decorative accessory that once belonged to the old school, the pocket square has now become a sartorial signature for men. It is a kind of fashion flourish that is often used to telegraph a man’s attitude and individuality in every situation. That is exactly what Goulian Finch is all about—pushing the boundaries of the very definition of ‘classic’ itself by creating timeless pieces that revel in their uniqueness and individuality. 

Beautifully crafted and fully handwoven in mulberry silk and embellished with pure gold zari, each piece is then hand-curled in a way that results in plumped edges. These features give it a uniqueness which lends every pocket square to take on myriad shapes and does not sag in the pocket. What brought about the genesis of the brand was the combined quest of co-founders Gunjan Aggarwal and Bejoy Suri.

“My husband loves accessories that are conversation starters, and I had simply run out of options to gift him something unique,” shares Gunjan with a laugh. The idea germinated further when business partner Bejoy reasoned, “With formal dressing for men taking a natty spin today, why can’t we have beautiful pocket squares that are ethnic and rich, just like our traditional saris?”

Inspired by the sights and sounds of Varanasi, the duo came up with a multitude of motifs, from the boats that skim the waters of the Ganga past the ghats to the fascinating lotus that blooms in glory. The poetic fluidity and the symphony of exquisite weaves was an instant hit.

The first collection was lapped up greedily online last year by voracious buyers, yearning for a game changer in this niche accessory circuit. Of course, it helps that each Goulian Finch pocket square is so versatile that it blends just as beautifully with the detailed darts of a bandhgala as it does with the sharp tailoring of a tuxedo.

However, challenges abound. "It is simply impossible to recreate the exact same shade every time," rues Gunjan. "Our weavers still choose to hand measure the quantum, hence no two mixes turn out exactly the same."

But therein lies the beauty. “We have spent seven years working with the weavers in Varanasi. They come from generations used to weaving 54-inch saris. To get them to weave pocket squares was akin to shrinking a sari into 16 inches!” she smiles. The duo explored weaving techniques down South too but it was the Banarasi weaves that left them intrigued beyond measure.

But if the inspiration was Varanasi, why is the brand named after a bird? “Well, seeing the Gouldian finch was like falling in love at first sight. I remember reading a story on the Gouldian finch—how you can see the bird, but can never touch it. There is something truly ethereal about its gorgeous plumage. I wanted to capture the essence of that exquisite feeling in the brand name for my unique, handcrafted products. The logo was inspired by the flight of the bird with deep connections with the spiritual and the infinite,” explains Gunjan.

As to what’s next, Goulian Finch is now eyeing another purely western domain—cufflinks. It has launched stunning rudraksha cufflinks, the first of its kind in the world. Says Bejoy, “The ‘globe’ design makes way for each handpicked 13mm-size rudraksha, fitting the entire seed into an 18-carat gold ring, affixed with a stitch design. Each seed is sourced from the Himalayan region to ensure purity and quality.” What makes the cufflinks even more special is that they are made from the treasured ‘panchmukhi rudraksha’ of Nepal that seats itself in a place of pride in Indian mythology. It symbolises the five elements of sky, air, fire, water and earth that unify into a protective shield on the wearer against negative energies. 

The passion to play with men’s accessories in a niche manner is palpable, and forms the bedrock of the Goulian Finch brand ethos—to flesh out lost art forms and repurpose their magic for a generation that loves to experiment with cultural influences. As for the future? “We want to retail beyond India as well and take our traditional hand craftsmanship to the world,” the duo say.Available at Delhi’s Taj Khazana as well as at www.goulianfinch.com. Price: `12,000 onwards.

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The New Indian Express
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