Known for her linen weft saris in different hues and quirky motifs, designer Lipsa Hembram has given a new lease of life to the coarse cotton Phuta Jhala sari of the Santhal tribals of Mayurbhanj in Odisha. Seven years ago, when Hembram launched her design studio and label Galang Gabaan—which means to create something with love in the Santhali language—she wanted to contemporise conventional wear of the Santhali women. Today, she retails throughout the country, including the Hindi film industry.
“In the last few years, the way Bollywood has supported small businesses and regional textiles and in particular saris, it feels good to be a part of that list. My creations are very simple and special and when someone wears it, I feel elated,” says the designer with a smile.
Hailing from the Santhal tribe in Dandbose village of Mayurbhanj district, Hembram grew up watching her family wearing the Santhali weave at festivals and gatherings. An alumnus of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad, she understood its cultural relevance only after being exposed to the fashion industry.
“I started working on Santhali designs only after my mother asked me to make new designs for her,” says the 35-year-old designer who through her brand wants to bring the Santhali culture to the forefront in a contemporary essence. So you have a new vocabulary replete with flowers, animals and birds woven into the designs, while the essence has remained the same.
Last year, she exhibited an installation of the Phuta Jhala sari at the 18th century Belgadia Palace in Mayurbhanj as part of the Karkhana Chronicles campaign. Working with the natural-dyed organic fabric from Kotpad in Koraput, Odisha, Hembram claims it adds a softer touch to the fabric.
“In fact, the natural dyeing process is one of the first GI-tagged products from Odisha,” says the designer who is now working with the weavers of Balangir in block level clusters and helping them develop new designs and products. Crafting only limited edition collections, she aims at recycling and upcycling the textile waste. To prevent the waste from ending up in landfill, her team makes fabric yardages out of every bit of leftover and then makes garments out of it.