Hailed the 'Karl Lagerfeld of India' by the late superstylist Isabella Blow, Tarun Tahiliani has owned the Indian fashion scene for 25 years. The first Indian designer to showcase at Milan Fashion Week back in 2002, his work has become a point of reference for the way his designs reflect what evolving India looks like.
While the pandemic brought the world to a standstill, Tahiliani is candid enough to admit that it gave him the much needed time to introspect. "It allowed for stillness. As a consequence of it, I had a lot of time to evaluate and reassess. All this has affected my fashion direction at many levels because the focus is now on what we need, how we can honour the planet. In homage to this luxury of stillness is our latest collection - Timelessness," he says.
The collection was recently launched on Instagram via a virtual fashion show. Presenting his patrons with one of the lightest yet most exquisite collections by the brand till date, Tahiliani proved yet again that his approach has always been futuristic.
Moving beyond his trademark Swarovski crystals, the collection experiments with gota, kundan, dull metallics and threadwork to add drama to the garment. The designer elaborates, "Persian jaali in monuments has always been of great inspiration to me and I love to find ways to incorporate it in my design work. This season I have used laser-cut jaalis in tones on light silk, accentuated with kasab and kundan and the use of precisely cut gota, not only to ensure the sumptuousness of these techniques but also to maintain lightness in the final garment."
Besides, there is an infusion of handlooms such as Chanderi squares and stripes as well as unique Kanjivaram weaves along with bandhani. To him, lightness and fit are the two things that drive good design. For the past two-and-a-half decades, the designer has keenly focused on the quality of his creations while concentrating on the ease of wear.
Never compromising on the garment's movement and fluidity, he has found ways to work with traditional and modern techniques to create these veritable pieces of art in motion.
The brand is now gradually transforming its sindoori red, classic beige (his personal favourite), hues of pinks and blush in embroideries such as kashida and chikankari, so that the general prevailing sentiment is intact. "At the same time, we are finding a way to make it more comfortable," says the designer.
The new collection showcases the bride as the modern goddess. She envisions her wedding as an extension of her personality. She wants to be a part of the festivities, not as a bystander, but an equal participant.
Worthy of her vision, the silhouettes that make up the collection include lightweight lehengas, shararas, peplum blouses, concept saris, newly structured drapes and anarkalis. "I find the idea of people wearing weight incredibly passé. In addition to making clothes sustainable, we want people to buy quality and re-use the quality for a long time to come," says Tahiliani.
What about menswear, you ask? "That is more classic and fit-oriented. Something that's cut to perfection and impeccably tailored. Having said which, it is so lovely to see a modern man taking more interest and sharing centrestage with his bride. We see more drapes being the way forward for men because it still keeps things classy and adds a regal touch to their wedding ensemble," says Tahiliani.
He doesn't share much on the future, but hints at heading towards being more present, timeless and fabulous. "And never compromising on quality or lightness," he signs off.