A dreamy, floaty, contemplative tribute to Issey Miyake at Paris Fashion Week
PARIS: The Japanese techno-fabric-loving house of Issey Miyake paid tribute to its late founder at Paris Fashion Week on Friday with the sort of choreographed dance show that he pioneered.
The spring show was fittingly contemplative.
A black and white portrait of Miyake, who died last month at the age of 84, was projected on the walls and the show began solemnly with sober monochrome outfits.
A heartfelt tribute to him was included in the show notes from current designer Satoshi Kondo and the design team. It read: “We see design as a process driven by curiosity, built upon a comprehensive exploration -- bringing joy, wonder, and hope to life, and of course with a touch of playfulness.”
Against the set of a huge glowing obelisk, draping and gentle curves defined the soft aesthetic.
But the dancers turned to floatier, lighter outfits and a more dreamlike atmosphere as the show went on -- reflecting the label's trademark style.
Models walked a hazy, white and blue backlit runway, appearing as if through clouds.
READ HERE | An ode to the 'Prince of Pleats' Issey Miyake
A loose white shirt had additional layers of fabric on the shoulder that fluttered like wings, while a neon-yellow trench with voluminous arms dazzled like the first ray of sun.
The best looks in the otherwise play-it-safe collection were classic Miyake styles. One torch-red gown was made of horizontal veins of fabric that bounced stylishly as the model paraded past. Its asymmetrical skirt flowed down one leg like moving lava.
It was in the 1990s that Miyake teamed up with famed choreographer William Forsythe to put dancers among the models for a catwalk show.
It was unprecedented at the time -- but is now common, as seen at the Dior show earlier this week.
Miyake, who was focused on clothes that allowed freedom of movement, also worked with the choreographer on costumes for his ballet "The Loss of Small Detail" in 1991.
The collection presented on Friday was inspired by sculpture, with three-dimensional silhouettes made with a single piece of fabric and prints created from clay shapes applied by hand to the fabric to provide relief and texture.
The house also introduced a new material, called "vegetable polyester", which does not use petroleum products.
(With inputs from AFP and AP)