Fashion, like most forms of art, has always borrowed from the expected and unexpected changes that the world experiences. Designer Namrata Joshipura’s recent collection titled ‘The First Order’, which she showcased at the Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI in Mumbai on Saturday, is positioned somewhere between ‘The future is Female’ and ‘The future is AI’, planting the idea that it can be both.
On the runway, one witnessed assertive and poised models—including showstopper, actor Athiya Shetty—flaunting futuristic glam outfits that emerged as a result of a synthesis of nostalgia, post-modern disco luxury, a future fuelled by Artificial Intelligence (AI) and data. We speak to Joshipura—who shuttles between Canada and New Delhi—about her collection, her inspirations, and more. Excerpts from an interview.
The last time you showcased your collection at the Lakmé Fashion Week was in 2015, while you exhibited last at the Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week in 2021. Tell us about returning to the runway for the first time post the pandemic.
I am very energised to be back with a collection that reimagines our signature design DNA. There is a lot to still explore in my design journey. Putting on a runway show is an intense amount of effort and stress in a very short period of time. Fortunately, that muscle memory fired up again!
You are a marathoner, and have always been conscious about your fitness levels. Does this, in any way, reflect in your aesthetics as a designer?
I am so attuned to how my body performs in training for and [while] running marathons. This awareness has certainly been one of the factors that has shaped my aesthetic. I love celebrating the body in all its sinuous beauty. And yes, there is always a reference to performance clothing in my shows whether it is in the accessories or the use of fabrics.
A global design appeal and futuristic touch to your garments have been constants in your collections. However, has your brand ethos and design language changed over time to suit a young, post-pandemic audience? If so, how?
My core design DNA is constant but it keeps on evolving. I don’t dress an age. Regardless of age, our woman is fit, unabashed, and just supremely poised. That is the stance when the future is (re) evolution.
Tell us about your latest collection ‘The First Order’, which you state is impacted by OpenAI and DeepMind. How have you fused high-tech concepts sartorially?
AI is now consuming this data set unfolding in front of us., soon to be synthesised and served back to us. AI is not just a new tech wave but a fundamental pillar woven into every aspect of our lives. The question is: How do we maintain our essential humanity in this profound shift? My answer is a stylised, updated nostalgia.
From a collection perspective, give us a glimpse into the fabrics and silhouettes used in ‘The First Order’.
The usual Namrata Joshipura (NJ) suspects are back for an encore—we love our jumpsuits, bodysuits, and signature NJ draped dresses; clingy and cut sharp, a celebration of the body in all its sinuous beauty. Cropped and classic blazers, paired with body suits and dresses are a satisfying high/low juxtaposition.
For me, fabric is often just a vehicle for our [brand’s] beautifully intricate embroideries. However, in the collection we have used heavy crepes, luxe satins, and shimmer spandex. The high shine supports the theme of the show, which is about AI and envisioning the future.
Who is the Namrata Joshipura muse, and how has it evolved?
AI is my muse this season! I was thinking about how we might dress in a world that disintermediates the human, what does that loss make us yearn for? Nostalgia. Perhaps, a post-modern disco elegance.