Mumbai-based fine jewellery brand House of Ajoomal’s new collection Zanzibar is an ode to the African island’s cultural richness.
When his friend shared photos from a visit to the archipelago, Harshad was drawn to the vibrant textiles and contrasting prints of the locals’ garments. “It sparked my curiosity leading me to dig deeper. I even travelled to East Africa to learn more about their culture. I discovered that while Zanzibar’s vibe is unmistakably African, it also carries influences from the Middle East, Europe and the Indian subcontinent, reflecting its rich trade history,” he says.
Harshad used several natural gemstones for the line, mostly sourced from Africa. Whether it’s the snap bracelet in blue tanzanite and orange spessartite cabochons with hints of white diamonds in 18k yellow gold, or the visually pronounced ombre bangle in shades of pale blue in topaz, and lilac, to dark amethysts with shades of pink tourmalines and sapphires with diamonds, the jewellery carries a definitive boldness. All the pieces capture the patterns of Zanzibaris’ garments.
“One of the most stunning pieces we’ve created is the half ear clips inspired by the shape of the local huts, set on a base of purple garnets, and large pink spinel cabochons, surrounded by a bed of rose cut diamonds. I especially love the purple garnet, believed to be the centre of inspiration and emotional healing in many cultures,” says 58-year-old Harshad.
The mid-length tsavorite cabochons and diamond earrings draw inspiration from the geometric prints on the locals’ garments. “I was in awe of the rectangles and squares on their traditional Kanga dress and head coverings, and incorporated the shapes into my designs,” he says. In the same vein is a dainty pair of ear clips in blue apatite and pink sapphire melee; the floral motif is taken from the textile print of a woman’s garment in a fishing village.
What lies ahead? To travel far and wide to places overlooked or unknown, and infuse rare influences into Indian fine jewellery.
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