Bhutan, the birthplace of the idea of Gross National Happiness, is known for its many fortresses (dzongs) and monasteries, tall mountains and deep valleys, scenic vistas and gorgeous landscapes. But what’s put it on the culinary map is a simple and spicy dish: ema datshi.
Recognised as the national dish of the Land of the Thunder Dragon, this fiery stew couples two primary ingredients: hot chillies and local cheese. Interestingly, this much-loved recipe treats chillies as a vegetable instead of using them for seasoning.
Get ready to activate your tear glands like never before, as the Bhutanese use different chillies—green, red, or white; dried or fresh. Typically, Sha Ema (Capsicum annuum cultivar), a type of pepper similar to cayenne, ancho, or poblano, is incorporated, but substitutes work well, as long as they’re really hot.
The rough winter in Bhutan translates into a scarcity of vegetables, which is why residents routinely dry vegetables. Green chillies are used in season; dry chillies are brought out in winter. The cheese used is usually made from cow or yak’s milk. But, these times, processed cheese can also be adapted into a quick, soupy ema datshi. In fact, Amul cheese is used in many small restaurants and eateries.
The zesty stew can be eaten in myriad ways. It’s often served with red rice, a variant of brown rice that is semi-milled and has a nutty taste. Cooking makes it soft and sticky—the perfect background to ladle out the curried chilli concoction. It’s also served atop buckwheat noodles, scooped up with bread or eaten on its own as a soup.
It is made, served and eaten everywhere—in fancy, ritzy five-star, medium-size restaurants, small cafes and roadside eateries. The fact that it is ubiquitous and quickly served makes ema datshi a top choice when on the move.
It’s not just the fiery dish that gets foodie’s taste buds tingling. If the spicy stuff isn’t your cup of tea, try the numerous variations, including kewa datshi (the chillies are substituted with potatoes), semchum datshi (beans replace chillies), shamu datshi (mushrooms are used instead of chillies). non-veg lovers are sure to enjoy the beef or meat datshi.
When in Bhutan, it makes sense to eat like the Bhutanese. Try Shakam, a concoction of ground beef, dried chillies and sliced radish; Jasha Maru, a Bhutanese take on the chicken curry; juma, a sausage made with minced meat, rice, and spices; goep, slices of tripe that is stir-fried with dried chillies, green onions, and veggies; Jaju, a light milk and leafy vegetable soup; and gondo datshi, buttery Bhutanese scrambled eggs. Of course, don’t miss the many momos—veggie, beef, pork, cheese and of course chillies. Shopping for souvenirs? Bring back some packets of dried Bhutanese chillies.
Make ema Datshi at home
Ingredients
✥ Green chilies: 12-15
✥ Onion: 1
✥ Tomato: 1
✥ Cheese: 1.5 cups, grated
✥ Butter: 1 tbsp
✥ Salt to taste
Method
✥ Chop the green chillies, length-wise and discard seeds
✥ Julienne the onions and tomatoes
✥ Melt butter in a saucepan and cook onions till translucent
✥ Add tomatoes and cook till mushy (five-sevenminutes), and tip in the chillies
✥ Cook for five minutes and add the cheese
✥ Pour in two cups of water and cook till the cheese melts
✥ Add salt to taste and serve hot
The zesty stew is served everywhere from five-star hotels, restaurants, small cafes and
roadside eateries
Green chillies are used in season; dry chillies are brought out in winter. The cheese used is usually made from cow or yak’s milk.