Residents of the Sala play chess by the river
Residents of the Sala play chess by the river

Making peace with a truant river

The swelling waters of the Chalakudy river in Kerala have ruined the tranquil lives of the residents of the Moozhikulam Sala on its shore. But they are not giving up yet
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Imagine an extended Walden Pond set in the Kerala idyll and you have Moozhikulam Sala, a pastoral housing colony for city people 28 km from Kochi in Kerala. As a mixed metaphor, one of the first things to catch your eye at the entrance is that there is no gate. A few metres inside, stands a large banyan tree with overhanging branches.

The mud paths abound in dry leaves. There is a good deal of vegetation: peanut, banana, fig, bamboo, sandalwood and cannonball trees. Because the Sala is right next to the Chalakudy river, a gentle breeze blows all the time. The calls of cicadas and the occasional cawing of a crow punctuate the silence.

The idea of the organic village was born to TR Premkumar, a former maths and physics teacher at a private college, after reading Living with the Himalayan Masters by Swami Rama. “Swami Rama said the more possessions you can give up, and live simply, the better it is for you. It is only then that you will see nature in all its glory.

It was a turning point in my life,” says the 67-year-old. He gave up smoking, alcohol and non-vegetarian food. He conceived a colony where people could live in close connection with nature. He located a two-acre plot near the Chalakudy river and advertised the project in a daily magazine in November 2005. All 52 plots sold out within a month. Today, it has around 70 residents. One of them is Pradeep Kumar, a freelance designer. He says, “I get to breathe pure air. There is a beautiful silence mixed with the cries of birds.”

The Sala comprises 23 mini ‘naalukettu’ houses of 1,089 sqft each, with three bedrooms; and 29 one-bedroom houses of 230 sqft each. No walls divide these dwellings of burnt brick and mud, made in the Laurie Baker style—British-born Baker (1917-2007) was renowned for using local materials to build houses in Kerala. “An air pocket between the bricks keeps the houses cool,” reveals Premkumar.

There is also a central well on the premises. Next to it, a 25,000-litre tank has been installed to provide each house with piped water. The residents of the Sala have a carbon-neutral kitchen—they do not cook the food. They eat everything raw, including the vegetables.

For easy digestion, the veggies—which are grown at a nearby patch of land without pesticides or chemicals—are mashed. “Believe me, the flavours are more delicious than when cooked,” says Premkumar, who lives at the Sala with his wife Sudhamani.

The tranquil life in nature’s bosom was disrupted by nature. During the massive floods in 2018, the waters of the Chalakudy river overflowed the banks and reached a height of 25 ft inside the colony. Only the tips of the roofs were visible. Thankfully, the residents were evacuated in time. “I lost my library of 2,500 rare books,” rues Premkumar.

The flood-like situation has become a regular affair year-after-year, but the residents of the Sala are not giving up on their eco-dream. “We have accepted the fact that this danger of flooding will always be there. The romance of the rains is gone,” Premkumar says ruefully, as he sits down to play a game of chess on the steps leading to the river. He isn’t checkmated yet.

“We have accepted the fact that this danger of flooding will be ever-present. The romance of the rains is gone.”

TR Premkumar

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The New Indian Express
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