Family fun can be summed up in three words: eat, pose, love. But in a heritage restaurant in the famous southern food trail, it may not always be in that order.
On one road trip, my family did all that at Sulyap Gallery Café and Restaurant, a two-storey turn-of-the-century house transplanted from Quezon Province and rebuilt in San Pablo City, Laguna. Outfitted with the owners’ antique pieces, it is a place where diners can partake of local cuisine and a cultural experience at the same time.
The architecture is typically colonial style—masonry for the lower level, wood for the upper. Spanish-era wooden panels culled from provincial old houses have found new life on its walls and doors. Trees and ferns with outspread fronds, indicative of lush lakeside foliage in this area, shade the al fresco part of the restaurant from the tropical sun.The upper-floor window woodwork, accented by capiz shells and stained glass, and carved balustrades and ventanillas are a feast for the eyes. If it had not been for the lunch-hour crowd on the second level, we would’ve snapped more photos. At least, we had the ground floor to ourselves. Our food took its sweet time in coming, which was an excuse to ham it up for pictorials, directed by my friend Ki.
Religious relics and vintage household items conspired with the servers by averting our attention away from the long wait for lunch. Paperweight-size icons crowd an altar atop an antique bureau while a life-size wooden statue of St. Francis de Assisi is ensconced and encased in the middle of the room. Old-school appliances and vinyl records displayed around the room give it a homey ambiance. They evoked a certain intimacy, a feeling that we were dinner guests in someone’s house.
Finally, after almost an hour, lunch was served. The sugpo kare-kare (jumbo shrimp cooked in thick peanut sauce) and kulawong puso ng saging (smoked banana heart in coconut milk) were worth the wait.
Across the driveway is Sulyap Museum, a repository of the owners’ collections. As in the restaurant, both religious icons and antique furniture fill entire rooms and armoires. Different eras in Philippine history, perhaps with the exception of pre-colonial, are represented. Down the driveway is Casa Obando Bed and Breakfast. Named after the town in Bulacan from where this house built in the 1850s originated, it was dismantled and faithfully rebuilt to its original floor plan and design in this present site. We didn’t go inside, however, as this was only a pit stop and we had long way to go on our southern Tagalog road trip.
Sulyap is Tagalog for “glance.” This quaint nook south of Manila allows a glimpse of Philippine heritage through art and architecture. It serves up both physical nourishment and an enriching experience. Although the service was short in Filipino-style hospitality, it is still an ideal place for trans-generational bonding, for families to eat, pose with, and love our heritage. And to pray? Needless to say, we did say grace before our meal. —A J Poliquit
Sulyap Gallery Café, San Pablo City Restaurant, 4000 San Pablo City, Philippines, Phone:+63 49562 9735