Why do women in Rajasthan wear such bright colours,” I questioned my guide and pat came the reply, “To complete the scenery.” The view out of the car window, showed how right he was. There they were. Carrying earthen pots on their heads, their colourful bandhini dupattas fluttering in the breeze. The environmental graffiti was sure a sight to behold. Wayfaring around the cities of Rajasthan, a friend’s recommendation led me to explore the interiors. And we were headed towards the royal fort of Kumbhalgarh.
Every village, monument, temple in this town tells a story of the glorious past. Built by Maharana Kumbha in the 15th century, the fort provides a panoramic view of the surrounding towns. Extended during the 19th century, the fort is also famous as the birthplace of Rajput king Maharana Pratap.
Legend has it that Maharana Kumba’s first few attempts to construct the fort’s wall turned futile. It was then that a spiritual guru advised a human sacrifice. Initially, no one came forward but later a pilgrim agreed. Today, the main gate of the fort has a temple in tribute of the sacrifice.
The wall extends to 36 km, making it the second largest wall in Asia. A light and sound show at the fort is a must if you want to understand the history properly.
The wild side
On the last day of the trip, I planned to climb atop a random mountain I had spotted on my drive here. Accompanied by a young Nepali guide and photographer, we started out at daybreak. With no proper pathway, the climb proved to be very difficult. The mountain was steep and the guide told us not to look down till we reached the top.
However, the view from the top sucked out the fatigue from the climb. Through the morning mist, we could spot the fort, standing majestically on the hilltop.
On the way down, the surroundings went unnaturally quiet. Suddenly, the smell of fresh meat wafted in the breeze. That very minute we saw a leopard darting towards a cave-like structure. The Nepali guide continued to walk as if nothing had happened, the photographer looked nervous and quickened his pace and I silently thanked the gods. The guide said it was nothing unusual as spottings were frequent.
Independent organisations also take you on walks through the forest and horse safaris.
On reaching the resort on Maharana Pratap Marg, we were told that a night guard had been mauled the previous night by a leopard and had lost his hand. The history aside, Kumbhalgarh also houses the Kumbhalgarh Widlife Sanctuary which is home to varied breeds of animals like the wolf, leopard, sloth bear, hyena, jackal, jungle cat, sambhar, nilgai, chausingha (the four horned antelope), chinkara and hare.
A long walk to heaven
A vegetable vendor in the Kelwara village market suggested a visit to the Parshuram Temple in Udavad, Kelwara. With thick forests on either side, it is a thrilling experience to run down the winding road. To reach the temple, you have to climb another 500 steps. It is recommended that you carry biscuits and bottled water for this expedition as the journey is long and tiring.
Those interested in old architecture, head to Ranakpur Jain Temple, a four-hour drive from Kumbhalgarh.
Rural retreat
A trip to Rajasthan is incomplete without a little shopping on the side. Just 2 km from our resort was the village market of Kelwara. The predominant ware of the shops is bandhini (tie-die-printed fabric) clothes.
Small restaurants serving homemade Rajasthani food can be a good break from the hotel meals. Silver jewellery shop should also be explored. You can find exquisite carved pure silver ornaments at dirt cheap prices.