A walk to remember in Karnataka's Kapu

Karnataka’s Kapu, a hidden coastal gem, is the perfect place for a contemplative tête-à-tête with oneself.
The famous Kapu lighthouse
The famous Kapu lighthouse

The end of the year brings with it burnout and a lot of chaotic times. In the midst of all this, if it is quiet contemplation you seek, then head to the little-known coastal town of Kapu, near Udupi in Karnataka. With the blue-green of the Arabian Sea on one side, and forested hills of the Western Ghats stretched out on the other, a few days in this idyllic town can rejuvenate any jaded soul.

Standing amid illustrious neighbours such as Udupi and Mangaluru, Kapu is a perfect slice of calm. In the early morning light, the ocean is speckled with fishing boats. Tiny hamlets line the water’s edge, eagerly awaiting the return of the boats with the day’s catch. Early morning is also the best time to go for long walks, with miles of deserted beaches and an occasional human crossing the path.

fishing boats
fishing boats

As the sun rises a bit higher, the water and the sands are drenched in a warm glow. Take a little detour on the road running parallel to the shore and you will be greeted with colourful houses sitting next to each other, interspersed with views of the sea through coconut palms. It is not uncommon to find peacocks, strutting across the road, unafraid of human presence.

At places, the road goes inland only to reappear a little later. In between, it leads to the main Kapu beach, with sundry shops and eateries, and a concrete path facing the sea. The road ends abruptly near a massive rocky outcrop on top of which is located the famous Kapu lighthouse, painted black and white in alternating rings. Clambering up a set of steps takes one to the base of the lighthouse. Built by the British in 1901, the circular stone masonry tower rises 34 metres. While the tower itself is off-limits, walking around its base provides stunning 360-degree views of the sea and surrounding areas.

As the sun approaches the western horizon, the stage is set for magnificent drama. The sky is awash in glorious orange, crimson and pink, the sea a rippling mass of liquid gold. Against this backdrop are silhouetted fishermen returning home in their boats.

Those interested in a longer drive, can follow the road which slowly makes its way to Malpe a major fishing port about 20 km north of Kapu. Crowded with colourful boats, it is a pleasure simply walking along the piers. Malpe is the gateway to St. Mary’s Isles, an island with surreal pillar-like basalt rock formations rising out of the sea. A short ferry ride takes visitors to the island. A few days at Kapu can spoil you for good. Be it watching the glorious colours of the sea, long walks on the golden sands or a slow drive along narrow coastal roads, Kapu is nature at its best.

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